这是四种最常见的植物 They are four of the most common plants we know.
我们一直以为我们控制植物 We've always thought that we controlled them.
但事实上植物一直在塑造着我们 But what if, in fact, they have been shaping us?
人类对植物重视不够 We don't give nearly enough credit to plants.
植物一直在服务人类 They've been working on us,
也在利用人类达到自己的目的 they've been using us, for their own purposes.
这四种植物占据了重要地位 Four plants that have traveled the road to success,
满足了人们的欲望 by satisfying human desires.
郁金香 The tulip,
满足了人类对某种对美的欲望 by gratifying our desire for a certain kind of beauty,
人类将它从起源地中亚 has gotten us to take it from its origins in Central Asia,
带到了世界各地 and disperse it around the world.
大麻 满足了人类改变意识的欲望 Marijuana, by gratifying our desire to change consciousness,
人类于是冒着生命危险 has gotten people to risk their lives,
冒着丧失自由的危险 their freedom, in order to
栽种了越来越多的大麻 grow more of it and plant more of it.
土豆 满足了人类控制的欲望 The potato, by gratifying our desire for control,
控制住自然人类就能养活自己 the control of nature, so that we can feed ourselves,
土豆于是走出了南美洲 has gotten itself out of south America
和500年前相比 天地大为广阔 and expanded its range far beyond where it was 500 years ago.
而苹果 And the apple,
满足了人类对甜的欲望 by gratifying our desire for sweetness --
从哈萨克斯坦的森林出发 begins in the forests of Kazakhstan,
成为了全球性的水果 and is now the universal fruit.
在驯化之路上 These are great winners
它们都是成功者 in the dance of domestication.
下面我们和畅销书作家迈克尔•波兰 A look at nature
用一种从来从未有的方式 the way you've never seen it before,
来审视大自然 with best-selling author Michael Pollan.
爱好者原创译制 如有疏漏 欢迎交流
了解植物之间的关系 And this relationship of the plants,
以及那些植物怎样满足人类的欲望 learning how to gratify our desires,
【时间轴 后期】 FLEDENCE
人类为了那些欲望付出了怎样的代价吧 and our working for them in exchange for this,
节目名为"植物的欲望" Is what I call "the botany of desire".
【校对 指导】 Summer
视频仅供交流参考 禁止用作任何盈利行为
本项目主要得到了 Major funding for this program is provided
国家科学基金会的资助 by the National Science Foundation,
我们的探索由此启程 where discoveries begin.
还有Alfred P Sloan基金会的资助 Additional funding is provided by the Alfred P Sloan Foundation,
该基金会旨在提升现代社会中 to enhance public understanding
公众对科技的理解 of science and technology in the modern world.
我们也得到了位于旧金山的 And by the Columbia Foundation
哥伦比亚基金会的资助 in San Francisco,
该基金会旨在推动社会 which supports the transition
向可持续化社区转变 to sustainable communities.
我们还得到了当地电视台 And by contributions to your local station,
还有像您一样的观众们的帮助 by viewers like you.
谢谢大家 Thank you.
这是五月中特殊的一周 It was that very special week in May,
苹果花盛开时会振动 when the apple trees are in spectacular bloom,
来吸引蜜蜂的注意 and they're just vibrating with the attention of bees.
我在种土豆 And I was planting potatoes,
在一小陇一小陇的地里放进土豆块 making my little rows, and putting in my chunks,
蜜蜂在我头上忙碌 and the bees were working above me.
我突然想 And it occurred to me --
我和这些蜜蜂有什么共同之处呢 you know, what did I have in common with those bees?
你会想这个问题 And when you think about it,
经常想 quite a bit.
蜜蜂认为 自己在这交易中是最大的赢家 The bee assumes it's getting the best of this deal
苹果花开时 with the apple blossom.
蜜蜂钻进花朵 获取花蜜 It's breaking in, it's getting the nectar.
腿部的绒毛上无意中粘上花粉 And has no idea that it's picked up this pollen on the hairs of its thighs
将花粉带到 and is transporting it to another tree
花园里 街上或其他任何地方的 In the garden or down the street,
另一颗树上 or anywhere else.
所以如果蜜蜂认为自己是最大的赢家 So for the bee to think it's in charge of this relationship
其实是自己想象力不够 is really just a failure of bee imagination.
我知道自己想象力也不够 And I realized I had the same failure of imagination.
从某种意义上来说我为土豆工作 I was working for these potatoes in some sense.
我种土豆 我给土豆 I was planting them, I was giving them
多一点的栖息地 a little bit more habitat than they had before.
但我觉得自己有点在发号施令 And yet I thought I was kind of calling the shots.
这时候我想 从植物的角度看 So that's when I had this thought that, wouldn't it be interesting
人类与驯化植物的关系 to look at our relationship to domesticated plants
会不会很有趣呢 from the plant's point of view?
当然植物没有意识和意图 Of course, plants don't have consciousness or intention,
但是人类有意识地 but the act of using our consciousness
将自己置于植物的根里 to put ourselves in their "roots",
或位置上 或者任何东西里的做法 or shoes, or whatever,
帮助人类从有利于植物的角度来看事物 helps us to see things from their vantage point.
这样做时 And when you do that,
大自然突然变得很不一样 nature suddenly looks very different.
我们意识到我们处在大自然的网络中 We realize we're in the web of nature,
而不是立于大自然之外 not standing outside it.
这些植物就像镜子 These plants are mirrors
借此我们能以稍微不一样的方式看自己 in which we can see ourselves in a slightly different way.
这既是关于植物的故事 And as much as this is a story about plants,
也是关于人类欲望的故事 it's a story about human desire.
翻译
千千 徐永岚 侯一鸣 薛海彬 路遥 徐伟杰 张泽彬 陈梓亮
苹果
甜
王二 熊佳劲 石大保 曦璃 张宇凡 黄磊 FLEDENCE 湛雨然 孙裕喆 李明聪
早上好 我叫布莱恩 Good morning, my name is Brian,
欢迎来到贫困巷果园 welcome to poverty lane orchards.
我们要做的第一件事是去果园 First thing we're gonna do is we're gonna head up into the orchard,
到那里 我会给大家讲讲苹果 and when we get up there, I wanna tell you a little bit about the apples,
苹果树 以及怎样摘苹果 And the trees, and how to pick apples.
对英格兰的孩子们来说 For children in New England,
去当地果园摘苹果 it's an autumn ritual --
是秋天的仪式 an apple picking expedition to the local orchard.
好的 大家摘苹果时 Okay, when you guys are picking the apples,
要摘完全成熟了的 you want to pick out nice ripe apples.
红色的就是成熟了的 And the way to tell the ripe ones is they're red.
但这些孩子可能永远 But these children might never have
没有机会品尝苹果 had a chance to taste apples
如果苹果没能让人类大规模种植的话 had the apple not found a way to get us to do its bidding.
几千年前 人类开始 Thousands of years ago, the apple put us to work --
将苹果的种植从原产地中亚 transporting its genes from its native ground in Central Asia
扩大到世界各地 to the far corners of the earth.
要占领更大的领地 植物必须非常有进取心 For a plant to do that, it has to be awfully enterprising, willing to adapt
因为得愿意适应很多不同的环境 to a great many different environments,
得愿意尝试很多不同的形式和特点 willing to experiment with a great many different forms and flavors.
树上有真正红了的苹果吗 你看到什么了 Is there a really good red one up there? What do you see?
现在苹果是标志性水果 Today, it's a fruit iconic
深受喜爱 利用的方法很多 and beloved and used in a great many different ways.
但从前人们可不认为苹果 But the apple has not always been regarded as
是健康水果 the wholesome fruit we think of today.
苹果树是恶魔树 The apple tree was the great evil plant,
因为人们用苹果做烈性酒 because people took these apples and made hard cider,
很多年来美国农村 which was the main source of alcohol
那都是酒精饮料的主要成分 in rural America for many, many years.
各处获得的 The strategy -- the evolutionary strategy
发展办法就是 that got it from there to here,
生产更多的甜食 involved producing ever more sweetness.
莫奈尔化学感觉中心
好了 这是4号杯子 Okay, here's cup four.
给你 There you go.
如果你觉得难喝 If you think it tastes bad or yucky,
就给坏脾气的奥斯卡 I want you to give it to Oscar the grouch.
奥斯卡 好的 Oscar, okay.
这是2号杯子 So here's cup two.
如果好喝 就给大鸟吧 And if tastes good, I want you to give it to Big Bird,
因为大鸟喜欢味道好的东西 because he likes things that taste good.
孩子们在做味觉测试 These children are doing taste tests，
一部分是关于甜味的研究 part of research being done on sweetness
研究在费城的莫奈尔化学感觉中心进行 at the Monell Chemical Senses Center in Philadelphia.
莫奈尔化学感觉中心专门研究味道和气味 It specializes in the study of taste and smell.
真棒 太棒了 Good job! You're doing great.
行 再给你一杯 All right, so I'm going to give you another one.
我们发现的很重要的的东西是 Some of the fundamental things we've discovered are,
人类对甜的欲望是与生俱来的 the desire for sweetness is hardwired in human beings.
是固有的 是内在的 It's built-in, it's innate.
不是因为人从小 It's not because we feed babies
吃很甜的东西 high levels of sweet when they're young,
而是因为人的生理 it's part of their biology.
也许环境中少有甜食时 Presumably, our response to sweet evolved
人类对甜味的喜好就开始了 when sweet things were rare in the environment.
甜食很少 They were there in small amounts,
我们最大的问题就是确保 and our biggest problem was to make sure
摄取足够的热量 不会饿死 we got enough calories and didn't starve to death.
如果某种植物是甜的 If a plant was sweet,
那就意味着它不苦 没毒 that meant it wasn't bitter and poison,
也意味着它含有的热量比较高 it meant it was reasonably high in calories,
因为糖富含热量 because sugars are calorie-rich.
所以甜就意味着 And so sweetness is the signal
那东西对人类有好处 for something that's good for us.
大自然中的甜味很少 很特别 Sweetness in nature is very rare, very special,
只有成熟的水果中才有 it's really limited to ripe fruit,
蜂蜜中也有 如果你愿意冒险掏蜂窝的话 and honey, if you're willing to risk going into a beehive.
苹果是特别大的 移动的 And apples are a particularly big, portable,
长期的甜味储存器 long-lasting vessel for sweetness.
就在中亚的古树林中 It was here in the ancient forests of Central Asia
对甜食的追求 that our own pursuit of sweetness
使人类开始接触苹果 first brought us into contact with the apple.
科学家说 这是苹果基因的故乡 This, scientists say, is the apple's genetic home --
是苹果起源的地方 the place where it originated.
在如今哈萨克斯坦高高的树林里 These high forests in what is now the nation of Kazakhstan
生长过几千种不同的苹果 gave rise to thousands of different varieties,
其中很多至今依在这里生长 many of which still grow here today.
在哈萨克斯坦前首都阿拉木图 You land in Almaty, the capital of Kazakhstan,
苹果种子 and there are apple seedlings
在破碎的路上挣扎生长 pushing up through the broken pavement.
爬到山上 You go up into the hills,
你会看到几千种不同的苹果 and there are thousands of different kinds of apples.
既有又大又红的大苹果 Great big red apples that look like large macintosh --
也有小小的多节的绿色苹果 and you'd find these sort of knotty little green things
老鼠都不吃的 that even a rat wouldn't eat.
看着各种各样野生苹果 To see these wild apples in all their diversity
就会明白在这些森林里 is to realize that, in these forests, this is, you know,
这些最早的上帝之果是什么模样 these are god's first drafts of what an apple could be.
苹果保证发展的方式之一是 One way the apple could secure its future
扩大栖息地 was by expanding its habitat,
但这对植物来说很难 but that's a hard thing to do if you're a plant.
大家知道 苹果有同样的生存困境 You know, the apple has the same existential predicament
洒下种 扎下根 of any plant -- it's stuck in place, it's rooted down.
在中亚的哈萨克森林里 So you had the apple beginning its life
苹果开始生长 in these Kazakh forests in Central Asia,
但如果不是因为有被苹果吸引来的哺乳动物 but they would be stuck there
它就会困在那里 if not for mammals, that they evolved to appeal to.
如果你是森林里的饿熊 If you're a bear in a forest and you're hungry,
你不会挑和蓝莓一样小的苹果 you don't pick the little blueberry sized apples,
你会挑最大的 you pick the biggest ones you can get.
找得到特别甜的苹果 If you find a particularly sweet one,
酸的你就不会吃了 you're going to eat more of that one than a sour one.
拿到苹果后 And in their case,
熊都会吃掉 然后将种子排出体外 they eat the whole apple and excrete the seeds,
苹果就是这样传播自己的基因的 and that's how apples spread their genes.
甜味是苹果离开那片森林的车票 And sweetness was the ticket out of that forest.
走得比熊更远 But to move farther than bears could take it,
苹果需要新盟友 the apple would need a new ally --
于是它们找到了 人类 and found one...in us.
苹果天才之处是 Part of the apple's genius
将自己渗透中人类的文化中 has been to insinuate itself into our culture,
还有艺术和宗教中 and art and religion, as well.
这可以说是植物变色龙 It's kind of a botanical Zelig,
我的意思是苹果几乎无处不在 I mean, it just kind of shows up everywhere.
即使不是真的在那里 Even when it wasn't really there.
人和苹果一起的最有名的的意象之一 One of the best known images of people and apples together
源自《圣经》中的伊甸园故事 comes from the story of the garden of Eden.
虽然《圣经》没有明说是什么水果 Though the Bible doesn't specify what the fruit is,
我们一直以来就将其想象为苹果 we have always imagined it to be apples.
因为北方文艺复兴时期的画家 and that's because the Northern Renaissance painters,
画水果时 when they thought of a fruit,
画可以放在花园里的理想水果时 a desirable fruit that you would put in a garden,
马上就会想到苹果 They immediately thought "apple".
但那不是苹果 But it wasn't an apple.
可能是石榴 Probably was a pomegranate,
因为在《圣经》故事发生的地方 because apples don't do very well
苹果名声不是太好 in the lands where the Bible is thought to have taken place.
苹果确实生长过的地方 One place where apples did grow
是古代中国 was ancient china.
通过一条叫"丝绸之路"的贸易路线 They'd been brought there from Central Asia
苹果从中亚到了中国 on the trade route called the silk road.
从中国西进 The apple also traveled west,
到达欧洲 最后到达美洲 reaching Europe and eventually the New World.
在美国 苹果找到了同伴 In America, the apple found a partner,
他对对苹果的热爱将成为传奇 someone whose love for it would become the stuff of legend --
这个人就是强尼•阿普尔西德 Johnny Appleseed.
上帝对我很好 The Lord is good to me
我感恩上帝 and so I thank the Lord
在强尼•阿普尔西德的神话背后 Behind Johnny Appleseed the myth,
是一个叫约翰•查普曼的真人 there is a real person -- John Chapman.
但这个神话太有魅力 But the myth is so powerful,
太引人注目 太迷人了 so compelling, so fascinating,
人们完全忘了神话背后的那个人 that it has completely obscured the real person who's behind it.
约翰•查普曼1774年在马萨诸塞州出生 John Chapman was born in 1774 in Massachusetts.
20多岁时前往美国西部 In his early 20s, he headed west.
来到当时是美国边境 He traveled through the Ohio river valley,
的俄亥俄河谷 which was then the American frontier,
在那里种植 销售苹果树 planting and selling apple trees.
据说他把自己比作蜜蜂 He is said to have likened himself to a bee,
他觉得自己就像蜜蜂 that he had some sense that he, like a bee,
在扩大苹果树的种植面积 was spreading these plants around.
不是我开玩笑 Johnny Appleseed was --
强尼•阿普尔西德 not to make a terrible pun --
真的很穷困 a pretty "seedy" fellow, you know?
他经常光着脚到处跑 Travelling around, often barefoot,
有时候钻在粗麻袋中 睡在谷仓里 you know, in a burlap sack sometimes, sleeping in barns,
但他非常受欢迎 but terribly engaging.
当地人雇他种果树 People took him in, and he planted the orchards,
他告诉别人怎样剪枝 and he told them how to prune.
但是他 嗯... 是个流浪汉 But he was, um...he was a bum.
太奇怪了 因为实际上他很富裕的 This is doubly odd, because he was actually fairly well off.
查普曼完全买得起更好的衣服 Chapman could easily have afforded much better clothes --
他种的苹果树使他成了富人 all those apple trees he planted made him a prosperous man.
他不只是将苹果种子撒在他所到之处 He wasn't just sprinkling apple seeds where he went --
他还育种 he was a nursery man.
他知道 He understood that
无论下一批移民在哪里登陆 wherever the next wave of settlers would land,
他们都会需要苹果树 they would want apple trees.
因为法律要求人们种水果 By law, you were required to plant some fruit,
种了水果就表明他们会住下来 because that was a symbol you were going to stay put.
所以他找一块地 整理好 So he would find a piece of land, he would clear it,
播下苹果种子 and he would plant apples from seeds,
在移民到来前几年就开始育苗 and start a nursery a few years before the settlers got there,
移民一到 So by the time they showed up,
他就以几美分一棵的价格出售苹果树苗 he had saplings for sale for a few cents apiece.
生意很好 It was a very good business.
但当我开始研究苹果时 But when I started learning about the botany of apples,
对这个故事突然有了疑问 suddenly there was a problem with his story --
他种植苹果树为什么要从种子开始 why would he be planting them from seed?
这源于一个有关 The mystery stems from a curious fact
苹果特性的奇怪事实 of the apple's own biology --
苹果的味道和外观 its taste and even its appearance
很少通过种子遗传 are rarely passed on through its seeds.
你会发现每个苹果里都有些小种子 In every apple you will find a few little seeds,
每一粒都在自己的小房间里 each in their own little chamber.
种下去后每一粒种子 Well, every one of those seeds, if planted,
都会结出完全不同的苹果 will produce a completely different apple,
和母本完全不同 looking very little, if at all, like its parent.
它们往往又酸又苦 They tend to be sour, bitter,
或是别的不同的口味 all these other different flavors.
这是因为每一颗苹果种子 That's because each apple seed
携带着很多不同特征的基因 carries genes for a wide variety of traits,
种子开始生长时 and there's no telling which of those genes
不知道哪种基因会被激活 will be turned on when the seed starts to grow.
但有一种非常简单的方法 There is, however, a very simple way
来延续苹果的特性 to perpetuate the traits of an apple,
那就是叫做"嫁接"的古老技术 an ancient technique called "grafting".
从能结出你想要的苹果的苹果树上 You take a bud from a tree
取下一根幼芽 that produced fruit that you liked
将其插入正在生长的小树中 and insert it into a young, developing tree.
会发生什么呢 The result?
精确的复制 An exact copy --
或者说 原苹果树的克隆 or clone -- of the apple you started with.
许多美国移民都是这样种苹果的 Many American settlers grew their apples exactly that way.
但强尼•阿普尔西德不这么干 But not Johnny Appleseed.
他喜欢种植幼苗 让幼苗自然生长 He tended to grow seedlings and then just let them grow wild.
我们想他这样做 He might have done this, we think,
可能是因为他的宗教信仰 because of his religious beliefs --
他是信仰斯韦登伯格教义 he was a Swedenborgian.
18世纪基督教神学家 The 18th-century Christian theologian,
伊曼纽尔•斯韦登伯格 Emanuel Swedenborg,
布道说大自然是由上帝的精神建造的 preached that the natural world is imbued with god's spirit.
斯韦登伯格宣扬 Swedenborg had taught that
地球上的任何事物 everything that was here on earth,
所有能看到 感觉到 尝到 触摸到的东西 that you could see, feel, taste, touch,
在精神世界里都有对应物 had a counterpart in the spiritual world beyond.
对查普曼来说 这似乎是在暗示他 For chapman, this seemed to indicate that
不应该篡改周围世界中 he should not tamper with all of the natural things
所有能看到的自然事物 that he could see in the world around him.
这似乎是查普曼从种子开始 And this seems to be one reason why
而不嫁接的原因之一 he grows apples from their seeds, and not from grafting.
不管什么原因 查普曼的植物实践 Whatever his reasons, Chapman's botanical practices
给了苹果极佳的机会来适应新的环境 gave the apple a golden opportunity to adapt to a new environment.
从种子开始 By going back to seed,
就可以回到基因的生物多样性 you are going back to the biodiversity of your genes.
所有的苹果种子 So all of those apple seeds
长出数百种不同的苹果 produced hundreds of different kinds of apples
各有各的特性 with very different qualities.
苹果 And so the apple,
就像移民的英国人一样 just like the Englishmen who came over,
变成了美国人 remade itself as Americans.
因为是从种子长大的 Most of these new varieties,
结果大多数的新品种 是苦味 because they were grown from seed, turned out to be bitter.
但移民很好地利用了苦味苹果--做苹果酒 But the settlers had a very good use for them -- cider.
烈性苹果酒 Hard cider.
现在我们说"苹果酒"时 Now, when we use the word "cider",
我们脑子里想的是很甜的东西 we picture something very sweet.
当然 放在冰箱里 But of course, it only stays sweet
苹果酒会一直是甜的 if you have refrigeration.
所有酿制的苹果酒被装进桶子里发酵 so all the cider they made went into barrels and fermented
就变成了我们所说的"烈性酒" and became what we call "hard cider", alcoholic cider.
我们认为强尼•阿普尔西德 So Johnny Appleseed, who we think of as
很和善 很正派 the most benign, wholesome kind of character,
但事实上 他将烈酒运到边境贩卖 turns out was bringing hard drink to the frontier.
人们就喝那样的东西 That's what people drank.
殖民时期的美国害怕水 Colonial America was terrified of water!
你知道的 他们了解 You know, they knew about
欧洲所有和水有关的疾病 all the diseases of water in Europe,
因此他们不喝水 and so they didn't drink it.
因为苹果酒发过酵 Cider, however, because it had been fermented,
发酵过程杀死了使人生病的细菌 had killed, in the process, anything that might make you ill.
那时的苹果酒就是现在的啤酒和葡萄酒 That was the beer of its time, the wine of its time,
大家都喝苹果酒 每个人都喝 That's what everybody drank, and I mean everybody.
下至乞丐 上到总统都喝苹果酒 Everyone from paupers to presidents consumed cider.
美国第二任总统约翰•亚当斯早餐时就喝 John Adams liked to drink it for breakfast.
但随着时间的推移 苹果酒和苹果 But over time, cider and the apple
成为自己功名的受害者 became victims of their own success.
烈酒消费 Alcohol consumption
大约在19世纪30年代开始上升 started to rise in about the 1830s.
公众对烈酒的气愤也随之上升 And there's some public outrage over that,
似乎人们对喝酒或酗酒太有兴趣 that people seemed to be too interested in drinking, or are drunk.
所以所有酒精饮料 So all forms of alcoholic beverage
开始受到批判 苹果酒也在其中 begin to be criticized, and cider is among them.
人们找上了苹果树 People went after apple trees.
突然间 Suddenly the apple,
在美国历史上大部分时间里很有名望的苹果 which had been celebrated for much of American history,
被视为恶果 is vilified as the evil fruit.
从某种意义上说这是回到伊甸园 It's back in the garden of Eden, in a sense.
禁酒者凯丽•内神挥舞的斧头 The hatchet wielded by the famous prohibitionist
不仅仅要砍烂酒吧的门 Carrie Nation, was not just about breaking down saloon doors,
还要砍倒这颗邪恶的 it was also about chopping down this evil tree
使美国人喝醉的苹果树 that was getting Americans drunk.
但苹果甜的本质 But the apple would be rescued from infamy
会将苹果从耻辱中解救出来 by the sweeter side of its nature.
即使大多数苹果变成了苹果酒 Even though cider was what happened to most apples,
苹果还可以做食物的 apples were also eaten as a food.
当你幸运地找到甜苹果时 And whenever you were lucky enough to find a sweet one,
你就吃苹果了 that's what you did with it.
苹果酒名誉扫地时 So with cider in disrepute,
寻找新的甜品种的需求强化了 the race to find sweet new varieties intensified.
为了找到可食用的苹果 Everyone who had a cider orchard had his eye out
每个有苹果酒园的人都睁大了眼睛 for that one good edible apple.
这很好理解 It was really well understood
因为在美国 that one of the tickets
通向成功和财富的车票就是 to great success and great wealth in America
找到可食用的好苹果 was to find a good edible apple.
我们所知道的所有有名的苹果品种 And all the famous apples that we know --
像"美味" "麦金托什" the Delicious, the Macintosh,
"鲍德温" "北方间谍" the Baldwin, the Northern Spy --
都是在苹果酒园中培植出来的 these had all begun in cider orchards.
它们是星星 They were the stars.
在1900年之前 99%的苹果的命运 Before 1900, the fate of, like,
都是被做成苹果酒 99% of apples was to be drunk.
1900年之后 它才成为 After 1900, it becomes
我们如今所熟知的水果 the fruit that we now know.
对20世纪的美国人来说 For 20th-century Americans,
苹果是健康的象征 apples became a symbol of wholesomeness.
苹果种植者喊出了这样的口号-- The apple growers came up with this campaign --
"一天一苹果 医生远离我" "An apple a day keeps the doctor away".
将苹果被重新定义为健康食品 And essentially rebranded the apple as a health food.
这很好 但也意味着 That's all well and good, but what it meant is that,
你吃苹果时 as soon as you're eating apples,
挑的是那些少数 you focus on those few varieties
真正好吃的受欢迎的品种 that are really tasty and popular.
二十世纪 苹果的产业化 And the industry shrank down the number of apples
令苹果数量减少 over the course of the 20th century.
60年代初我还是小孩时 So that, by the time I was a boy in the early 60's,
市场上苹果的种类就很少了 there were very few apples in commerce.
只有红美味 金美味 There was the Red Delicious, the Golden Delicious,
和麦金托什 and the Macintosh.
你知道 那样 That was, you know,
市场营销人员很容易明白 easy for marketers to get their head around,
公众要的似乎也只是那些 it was all the public seemed to want.
但对苹果来说 这不是好消息 But for the apple, it wasn't very good news,
因为一旦不改进了 because as soon as you kind of freeze its evolution,
苹果就成了害虫很容易得手的猎物了 the apple is kind of a sitting duck for its pests.
美国人越来越多地运用科学家称之为 Apples were increasingly being grown
"单一栽培"的技术种植苹果 in what scientists call "monocultures"
这种技术仅培育一种苹果 which churned out just a single variety.
一旦你依赖随克隆而来的 Once you rely on the genetic uniformity
遗传一致性 that comes with cloning
而不是通过种子培育 rather than planting from seed,
物种自然进化的能力就被限制了 you restrict the species' natural ability to evolve.
当植物的基因组一成不变 So you have your plants, with their genetic combination staying still,
而害虫 我指的是昆虫或疾病 while the pests -- I'm talking about insects or diseases,
病毒或细菌 viruses or bacteria --
一直在试图入侵 are always trying to pick the lock.
迟早 他们将感染不止一棵树 And sooner or later, they will be able to get not just one of your plants,
而是所有的树 因为它们都是一样的 but all of your plants, 'cause they're the same.
为了使苹果树免遭虫病害的毒手 To defend them from insects and diseases,
大部分果树通常被喷上化学药剂 most apples are routinely sprayed with chemicals.
但显然虫害的破坏力 The bugs are clearly
远远超出了人类的控制力 well ahead of the human controls.
拿一个拥有几百亩地的大种植户来说 If you're talking about a large grower, with a couple of hundred acres,
每年可能要花 they're probably spending
50到75万美元 a half-million to three-quarters of a million dollars a year
来购买化学药剂 in chemical costs.
现在杀虫剂的最大消费者之一 One of the biggest consumers of pesticide now
就是苹果园 is the apple crop.
这是"单一栽培"的命运 It's the fate of monocultures.
我们得查查记录 We'll have to check the records
看看杀虫剂的作用到底有多大 to see what the resistances are in these,
我认为杀虫剂量还是很有用的 because these could be real useful
尤其在苹果繁殖过程中 in breeding right now, I think.
在日内瓦和纽约 科学家赫布•阿尔德温克尔 In Geneva, New york, scientist Herb Aldwinckle
和费尔•福斯林在寻求 and Phil Forsline are looking for
利用苹果藏在基因里的防御机制 another way to help the apple --
来使苹果免遭病害 by harnessing the defenses that lie hidden in its genes.
想想情况会怎样吧 So think what it would be like
如果植株被嫁接在某个矮化植株的根部 if it was grafted on a dwarfing rootstock.
新枝可能会更大 颜色更深 Probably double the size and even more color.
阿尔德温克尔和福斯林教授 Aldwinckle and Forsline
在这家苹果研究中心开展合作 collaborate at this apple research center,
这个中心隶属美国农业部 which is run by the U.S. Department of Agriculture.
这是苹果版的"诺亚方舟" It's a botanical version of Noah's Ark.
走入果园 To walk into this orchard is to --
第一眼看起来普普通通的果园 at first, it looks like kind of a normal orchard,
看着那一排排的果树时你会想 and then you realize as you look down the rows
天啊 每一棵果树都是不同的 that, my god, every one of these trees is different.
结出来的苹果有黄的 也有红的 There are yellow ones and there are red ones,
有绿的 也有紫的 and there are green ones, and there are purplish ones,
有的大 有的小 and there are small and large
各种形状的树和果实 and every shape of tree and fruit.
就像一个巨大的图书馆 It is just this vast library.
这儿的苹果树有5000多种 Here, there are more than 5,000 different kinds of apple trees,
每一种都有自己独特的基因组 each with its own distinct set of genes.
技工有各种各样的工具 A mechanic has a wide variety of tools
希望将来 which he hopes he'll be able to use
自己能用这些工具修好机器 to fix problems with machines he's working on,
苹果的情况也是如此 it's a similar situation with apples.
他们也需要工具箱 We need to have a tool chest,
而基因能提供那样的工具箱 and the genes are what provide the tool chest.
1989年阿尔德温克尔和福斯林 In 1989, Aldwinckle and Forsline
有了一次意外的机会来丰富工具箱 got an unexpected opportunity to add to their tool chest,
一些世界上最珍贵的苹果基因 some of the most valuable apple genes in the world --
来自哈萨克斯坦的基因 the genes from Kazakhstan.
我们将哈萨克的苹果林 We regard the Kazakh apple forests
看作是国内苹果的基因库 as the gene bank of the domestic apple.
野生森林正在被砍伐 Wild forests were being chopped down,
树木正在被毁灭 the trees were being destroyed,
再也不会存在了 they just wouldn't be there anymore
除非有人去收集种子 unless someone went there and collected them
再播种到其他地方 and grew them somewhere else.
我们坐着吉普车在树林里穿梭 We had some jeeps we traveled around in,
因此我们能够看到真正的苹果林 and so we were able to visit true apple forests.
第一次到中亚 It was a bit of a culture shock
有点文化冲击 to be in Central Asia for the first time.
我首先想到的是 My first impressions were, this was in
我在这荒无人烟的地方干什么呢 the middle of nowhere, what am I doing here?
但是 看到这里苹果的多样性 But, uh... to just see the diversity in those apples
真的让我震惊 is just amazing.
苹果树一旦被砍倒 就永远消失了 Once an apple tree is chopped down, it's gone forever.
但如果我们收集了那棵树的种子 But if we can take the seed from that tree
保存下来 and store the seed,
我们就可以将那棵树的基因保留下来 we can preserve the genes that were present in that tree,
我们也就可以永远保存那棵树了 and essentially we can preserve that tree forever.
阿尔德温克尔和福斯林教授 Aldwinckle and Forsline
曾多次前往哈萨克的森林 made several trips to the Kazakh forests.
他们带回来种子 并播种下去 They brought seeds back and planted them.
我们正站在我称为 We're standing in the middle of what I call
"日内瓦-纽约中心的再造哈萨克斯坦"中间 "Kazakhstan re-created in Geneva, New York".
我们不仅仅拯救苹果 But we're not only just saving it,
更是在建设一个信息馆 we're developing a library of information
包含每一棵树的信息的信息馆 on every one of these trees.
种子储存这一概念的关键 The notion of conservation of seed
是保存种子 因为你不知道 is to conserve it -- because you don't know
将来因为某个目的你需要那个种子 what you might need it for at some future time --
也许永远用不着 maybe nothing.
我们为什么要建博物馆呢 Why do we have museums?
因为那是保存东西的好办法 Well, because it's a good idea to conserve things,
那是博物馆的最主要的作用 that's the primary value.
其次就是 Then there's a secondary value,
充当遗传育种库存来解决一些问题 and that is to use them as genetic breeding stock to solve problems,
使种植者少用杀虫剂 to solve problems that might enable growers to use fewer pesticides.
在实验室里 In his lab,
阿尔德温克尔教授正在尽力那样做 Aldwinckle is trying to do just that,
他将野生哈萨克苹果中的抗病基因 by moving genes that provide disease resistance
转移到了一个人工种植的苹果品种中 from a wild Kazakh apple into a commercial variety.
这些是富士苹果的叶片 These are pieces of leaves of Fuji apple.
我们做的是 And what we've got here is an experiment
努力将某些基因 to try and transfer some genes
转化成能抗苹果赤霉病的基因 for resistance to apple scab
加入基因 富士苹果对黑星病就有了抵抗能力 Into Fuji, and therefore make Fuji resistant to apple scab.
19世纪 In the 19th century,
美国苹果中所有的遗传多样性的宝库 the repository of all the genetic diversity
就存在于苹果酒园中 of the apple in America, was in the cider orchard.
现在就在这些 Today it's in these collections
深知保护生物多样性的重要意义的 that are maintained by some visionary individuals
有远见的个人收藏的基因中 who understand the importance of preserving this biodiversity.
出现了恶性循环 There's a vicious circle
人类沉迷于单一栽培 that we get into, which is, we have monocultures
在田间 在盘子上进行单一栽培 in the field, and monocultures on the plate.
这就导致了单一化口味 Monocultures of taste.
现在水果要和汽水竞争了 Fruit now has to compete with soda.
所以苹果必须超级甜 So it has got to be super-sweet,
现代的苹果都非常甜 and the modern apples all are very sweet.
正如一位评论家所说 我们的苹果很"美味" We have apples that, as one critic said of the delicious,
是"没有范围的甜" it has "sweetness without dimension".
但问题是 如果你感受到的只有甜 The problem is, it's boring,
也会很乏味 sweetness -- if that's all you get.
在新罕布什尔州的黎巴嫩 In Lebanon, New Hampshire,
一个种植园主想通过回到苹果的过去的办法 one grower is trying to solve that problem
来解决乏味的问题 by reaching back into the apple's past.
史蒂文•伍德是贫困巷果园的主人 Stephen Wood is the owner of Poverty Lane Orchards.
他过去主要种植标准品种的苹果 He used to grow mostly standard varieties,
像"迈克斯"和"科特兰慈" like Macs and Cortlands --
但他发现他的苹果的价格 but found he couldn't match the prices
比不上大商业种植园主的苹果的价格 of the big commercial growers.
八十年代末我们意识到 We realized in the late 80's
我们一直所做的事将行不通了 that what we'd always done wasn't going to work any longer,
我们要么彻底改变我们的做法 and that we either had to change quite dramatically
要么不再种苹果了 what we were doing, or stop growing apples altogether.
但对伍德来说 But for Wood,
放弃果园是不可思议的 giving up on his orchard seemed inconceivable.
你知道 有人喜欢古董钟 You know, some people adore antique clocks,
而我喜欢的是苹果树 I adore apple trees.
怎么处理水果芯病呢 How are we doing on water core?
我们开始尝试嫁接一些 We started some grafting trials
我觉得可以称之为"古董"的品种 of what I guess you could call "antique" varieties --
过去这些品种很多 后来不常见了 varieties that are not commonly grown anymore, but once were.
这是威克森 This is Wickson.
这种苹果十九世纪末起源于西北太平洋 This apple originated in the Pacific Northwest in the late 19th century.
苹果酸度很好 It's got a beautiful acidity.
这是庞•格瑞丝 This is Pomme Grise.
这个品种不酸 很甜 It has very low acid, high sugar,
有坚果的味道 a sort of nutty flavor.
这是卡尔维尔•布兰克•德赫弗 This apple is Calville Blanc D'hiver.
酸中带甜 It's got a little bit of sweetness behind the acid.
看看17世纪的法国静物画 You look at 17th-century french still-lifes,
这是你看到的 this is the apple you see
死野鸡和酒瓶旁边的苹果 beside the dead pheasant and the bottle of wine.
苹果品种很多 There's a huge number of apple varieties,
数不胜数 it's almost infinite.
但靠卖古董食用苹果谋生很难 But it's tough to make a living selling only antique eating apples.
所以伍德先生将注意力转到 So Wood turned his attention to
苹果历史上被遗忘的另外一章 another lost chapter in apple history,
他大部分果园的种植的是 most of his orchard is now producing apples
酿制苹果酒的苹果 for hard cider.
种植大量无法食用的苹果是赌博 It is a gamble to plant acres and acres of inedible apples.
许多做苹果酒的苹果都无法接受的 Many of the best cider apples are disgusting --
又苦又涩 bitter, astringent apples.
决定种不是几棵 The decision to plant not just a few trees,
而是成千上万棵这样的苹果树 but thousands and thousands of those trees,
可能成为笑柄 如果苹果酒不好喝的话 could be quite a good joke if the cider doesn't make it,
因为这些苹果不会出现在 because these apples are not going to wind up
孩子们的午餐盒里 in a kid's lunch box,
这样的苹果没有第二个出处 there's no secondary market for this stuff.
美味的早餐饮品 Wonderful breakfast drink.
我们和别的一些大学一起努力 We are trying, with a few other colleagues,
想在美国酒贸易中添加一个门类 basically to create a category in the U.S. Wine Trade
那就是"好喝的苹果酒" of "fine ciders".
我认为我们在这方面做得很好 I think we're doing quite well in that,
不过目前没有定论 but the jury is still out.
许多甜水果很有市场 There are a lot of fruits that have gotten ahead in life
深受和人类一样的 by being sweet and gratifying the sweet tooth
喜欢甜食的哺乳动物欢迎 of mammals like us.
不过苹果还有别的意义 But there's something about the apple,
你知道 在西方文化中 you know, it's so iconic
苹果具有标志性 in western civilization,
苹果一直和人类关系密切 and so enduring in its relationship,
能够满足人类不断变化的欲望 and its ability, really, to gratify our changing desires --
对酒的欲望 对甜食的欲望 for alcohol, and for a wonderfully sweet food.
所以我认为 That my guess is,
在未来很多年里 苹果仍然会唱主角 it will succeed for many years to come.
翻译
白依婷 古丽孜艳 马文瑞 肖磊彬 杨志君 吴森源 何海妮
郁金香
美
王冠森 乔玉婵 李旭 迷鹿 小先生 刘宗轩 张佳怡 龚凌 李荣坤 付博远
神秘的是 为什么蜜蜂认为美丽的东西 The mystery is, why things that bees regard as beautiful,
我们也认为美丽 we also regard as beautiful --
我的意思是 我们和蜜蜂 I mean, what are the odds that we would have the same taste
口味相同的几率有多大 as this little bug?
当我说蜜蜂有美的概念时 When I say the bee has a concept of beauty,
我的意思是我在打个比方 I mean, I'm being metaphorical.
但是蜜蜂和人有很多相同之处 But the bee and ourselves have a lot in common.
我们真的很喜欢对称 We really like symmetry,
喜欢某些颜色 某些气味 we like certain patterns of color, and certain scents --
我们对气味的看法也一致 we agree about scent, as well.
蜜蜂喜欢花朵 靠近花朵 The bee loves this flower and moves toward it,
花的进化 就为吸引蜜蜂 and this flower has evolved to attract it.
当然 花进化也为了吸引人类 Well, this plant has also evolved to attract us.
在某种程度上花向人们展示 To the extent that a flower can gratify
什么是美丽的色彩 our ideas of a beautiful color,
漂亮的形状 好闻的味道 a beautiful shape, a beautiful smell,
花是风景的主角 是产业的主导 it will dominate the landscape, dominate the flower industry,
数量越来越多 统治世界 get many more copies of itself made, and take over the world.
从默默无闻到名声大躁 没有哪种花 And few flowers have traveled the road from obscurity to fame
比郁金香更引人注目 more spectacularly than the tulip.
59年前 我平生第一次看到郁金香 59 years ago, I saw first tulip in my life.
就在我父亲的花园里 And that was in the garden of my father.
现在我每天都和郁金香在一起 And now my whole life is with tulips.
没有人比荷兰人更了解郁金香 Nobody knows tulips better than the Dutch,
没有哪个荷兰人比祖普•佐内维尔德更了解郁金香 and few Dutchmen know them better than Joop Zonneveld,
佐内维尔德描述郁金香对他的影响的方法很奇特 but he has a curious way of describing their effect on him.
你一步一步呵护每一朵郁金香 You look after every tulip, step by step,
你得了郁金香热 you get the tulip fever --
越来越痴迷 it becomes worse, worse, and worse.
对我来说 郁金香在我身体里 永不停止 For me, it was something, it's in me, it never stops.
佐内维尔德做过郁金香买家和销售员 Zonneveld's been a tulip buyer, a salesman,
现在他守护着 and now he's conservator
世界上最著名的郁金香花园之一 of one of the most famous tulip gardens in the world --
荷兰的霍图斯布尔•玻如姆公园 Hortus bulborum in the Netherlands,
这里展示有时未受到充分赏识的 a showplace for the remarkable diversity
各种各样的郁金香 of this sometimes underappreciated flower.
这个花园里 有2300种郁金香 In this garden, we have 2,300 varieties.
有深紫色的 有几乎黑色的 You have dark purple colors, you have almost black tulips,
有洁白的 you have lily flowering tulips,
有一种郁金香的形状是这样的 像一朵百合花 there's a tulip that has the shape like this, like a lily flower.
还有黄色的 红色的 You have yellow, red,
粉色的 橘色的 双色的 pink, orange, bicolored,
有单瓣早花 单瓣晚花 双瓣晚花 single earlies, single late, double late,
所以郁金香知识太丰富了 一旦开始 so there are so many things in the tulips that once you start,
我们每天都会发现新东西 you discover every day, even myself, I discover every day new things.
今天佐内维尔德先生领着 Today, Zonneveld is giving a tour
摄影师露丝•登达斯和作家贾斯汀•斯普林参观花园 to photographer Ruth Dundas and writer Justin Spring --
这两位美国人来花园 two Americans who have
为他们的新书收集资料 come to Hortus to gather material for a new book.
这是朵绿花型郁金香 This is a lovely Viridiflora.
郁金香曾是他们 Tulips are about the last subject they thought
最不感兴趣的植物 would ever capture their interest.
说实话 开始摄影时 I have to say, honestly, that when I first started to photograph,
我最不想拍的就是郁金香 the last thing I wanted to photograph was tulips.
郁金香很没意思 It's pretty boring,
长得就像棍子上的棒棒糖 it's a lollipop on top of a stick,
当然 郁金香颜色多样 但也仅此而已 you know, you get different colors, but that's it.
但只要来到 It's only once you come to gardens
霍图斯布尔•玻如姆这样的花园 such as the Hortus Bulborum here
你就会明白 郁金香品种极其丰富 that you start to understand that this is a very varied flower,
适应和变异出很多不同的形状 and it's adapted and mutated into many different forms.
拍郁金香很有意思 It's a lot of fun to photograph,
研究郁金香可不容易 that there's a constant challenge to look into this flower
看到新的颜色 新的光 and be able to see new color, new light.
你可以拿一束郁金香 You can take a bouquet of tulips
每小时拍一次 and photograph it every hour of the day.
每次拍出来都会很不一样 And it's something quite different each time.
精彩 完美 Perfect, gorgeous.
太神奇了 几个世纪以来 It just seems so amazing that you have
如此众多的郁金香品种被培育出来了 this extraordinary variety that's been cultivated
但大家却一直 over centuries, and somehow you grew up
对此知之甚少 not knowing a thing about it.
在人类出现之前 Flowers began flaunting their beauty
花儿就已经开始炫耀它的美丽了 long before there were people.
一亿多年前 It was more than 100 million years ago
郁金香所属的被子植物 when the class of plants that flowers belong to --
开始出现在地球上 the angiosperms --first appeared on the earth.
被子植物的出现是自然历史的一场大革命 The great revolution in natural history is the rise of the angiosperms.
这类植物开的花引人注目 This is the class of plants that makes conspicuous flowers,
结果子 还有种子 forms fruit and seed.
这是大自然一种新的生存方式 This was a new way of doing business in nature.
被子植物的花 The flower of an angiosperm
有产生花粉的雄蕊 has a male part, the stamen, which produces pollen.
通过风 蜜蜂或人类的传播 Whether transported by wind, bees, or humans.
雄蕊的花粉落到雌蕊上 When pollen lands on the flower's female part,
花蕊受精 长出种子 the pistil, it gets fertilized, and gives rise to seeds.
种子中有各种基因 基因来自父母双方 The seeds contain a mix of genes from both the mother and the father.
在这之前 世界更绿 更寂静 Before that, you had this greener, sleepier world
植物往往通过克隆繁殖 where things reproduce usually by cloning,
利用与父母基因相同的孢子 by spores that were genetically identical to their parents.
进化速度缓慢 Evolution proceeded in a kind of pokey pace,
因为品种不多 because you didn't have as much variation,
授粉这种了不起的繁衍方式 And then you have this incredible explosion
带来了大量的郁金香新品种 of diversity that happens with this new strategy.
这种繁衍方式极其成功 It was incredibly successful strategy.
基因可以散播出去 It allowed you to move your genes around,
进化速度加快 it allowed you to evolve much quicker,
因为性产生新品种 because sex creates variation.
新的组合方式越多 And the more new combinations you try,
适应环境的能力更强 the quicker you can adapt to whatever the environment is.
被子植物中一个特别的群体 And one particular group of these angiosperms
想出了一个非常聪明的办法 came up with a really, really clever strategy,
这办法 And that was
不为吸引昆虫 鸟类或蜜蜂 to appeal not to, you know, bugs or birds or bees,
而为吸引人类 but appeal to us.
科学家认为第一批野生郁金香 The first wild tulips, scientists think,
和苹果发源地相同 sprang up in the same place where the apple originated --
也在中亚的山区 the mountains of Central Asia.
那个郁金香比现在的更开一点 It was typically kind of more open than our tulip,
所以有点像沙漏 so it had a kind of hourglassy shape.
散发出香味 里面的颜色稍有不同 Often had a scent, often had a slightly different color inside.
被郁金香的美吸引 Drawn by the beauty of these wild flowers,
人们开始学习种植郁金香 people learned how to cultivate them.
在人们的关注下 花长得更大了 Under our attention, the flower got bigger,
颜色更艳丽了 the colors very often got brighter,
然后人们开始实验不同的品种 and then we started experimenting with variation.
郁金香从中亚到了土耳其 From Central Asia, the tulip made its way to Turkey.
就在那里美丽的郁金香 It was there that this beautiful flower
成功吸引了世界上最有权力的男人之一 bewitched one of the most powerful men in the world,
奥斯曼帝国苏丹的注意 the Sultan of the Ottoman Empire.
在不同的历史阶段 土耳其人都很推崇郁金香 The Turks at various times in history revered tulips.
苏丹艾哈迈德三世尤甚 他太爱郁金香了 Sultan Ahmed III was famous for his love of tulips,
每年郁金香盛开的时候都成了节日 And when they were in bloom every year, there was a festival.
每晚都有演出 Every night there would be some sort of performance
庆祝郁金香盛开 to celebrate tulips.
非常奢华 事实上 It was so extravagant, in fact, that,
苏丹也因此下台 this helped bring down the Sultan.
因为他为郁金香花的钱太多了 加上其他的问题 For his spending on tulips and other perceived failings,
苏丹被推翻了 the Sultan was toppled from his throne.
不只是皇室被郁金香引诱 But it wasn't only royalty that got seduced by the tulip.
十七世纪早期 In the early 17th century,
整个国家为之疯狂 the flower caused a whole country to go mad.
失去了理性 It was completely irrational.
我们实在无法用逻辑分析 And I don't think you can explain it according to any logical scheme
这种全民的疯狂 that this entire society went nuts.
1634年至1637年间 Between 1634 and 1637,
郁金香让荷兰人陷入集体狂热 tulips swept the Dutch into a collective frenzy
被称为"郁金香狂潮" that has become known as "Tulip Mania".
荷兰人对郁金香的狂热 Their passion for the flower
引发了历史上最大的投资泡沫之一 spurred one of the biggest investment bubbles in history.
在很短的一段时间里 郁金香成为世界上 And for a brief time made the tulip one of the most
最有价值的商品之一 valuable commodities in the world.
这纯粹是个金融泡沫 It was a pure financial speculative bubble,
而且是关于花的 我觉得这太令人震惊了 and it was about a flower, I mean how amazing is that.
那时荷兰人主导世界贸易 It was a time when the Dutch dominated world trade
许多荷兰人发了财 and a lot of them were getting rich.
种花成了时尚 It became fashionable to grow flower gardens
但没有什么比种郁金香更赚钱的了 and nothing said "success" like a tulip.
最开始 富裕的荷兰人 In the beginning the rich people in Holland,
住着大房子 想要炫耀财富 They have big houses, and they want to show they're wealthy,
那个时候 用的是郁金香 at that time, were tulips.
就像是展示非凡的宝石 It really was about the display of the extraordinary the gem.
想象荷兰春天一个 And you picture, you know, kind of a gray, cloudy
阴云密布的下午 Dutch spring afternoon
在钢铁天空的映衬下 and that color against that steel sky.
郁金香的颜色是多么漂亮 Is a powerful thing.
因为有了郁金香 荷兰的花园有了炫耀的机会 For the tulip, the Dutch flower gardens offered a chance to strut its stuff.
而最炫的是 And no tulips did so more dramatically
被称为"打破"的郁金香 than the type known as Broken Tulips
这种郁金香非常罕见 但那时没人知道原因 They were extremely rare, but back then no one knew why.
"打破"出现在郁金香的背景色 A break was when the background color,
固态的 不光滑的 饱和的颜色 the solid, matte, saturated color of a tulip,
得到另外一种颜色的光辉 gets a kind of flame of a second color.
这个时候的郁金香 When this happened,
被认为是最漂亮的 this was considered, you know, the most beautiful tulip.
所有"打破"品种中最有价值的 The most prized of all the broken tulips
是极为罕见的"永远的奥古斯都" was one of the rarest -- the Semper Augustus.
又大又白的郁金香 It was a big, white tulip
带点胭脂红 with a splash of carmine red on it,
大家公认那是 which was really, by general account,
最漂亮的郁金香 considered the greatest tulip ever found.
荷兰人认为这是郁金香之美的极致 This was the epitome of tulip beauty in the eye of the dutch.
如果想有一株"永远的奥古斯特"在你的花园盛开 If you wanted a Semper Augustus to bloom in your garden,
你得先弄到它的球茎 You'd need to get your hands on a Semper Augustus bulb.
球茎是郁金香生活在地下的部分 That's the part of the tulip that lives beneath the soil.
种植球茎是唯一 And planting a bulb is the only way
确保郁金香后代 to make sure a tulip offspring
看起来和其父母一样的办法 will look the same as its parent.
但在17世纪的荷兰 But in 17th-century Holland,
"永远的奥古斯特"球茎非常少 Semper Augustus bulbs were very scarce.
那时阿姆斯特丹只有一个商人有这种球茎 At that time, only one merchant in Amsterdam had examples of this bulb.
最后有人说服他卖了一个球茎 Eventually one man prevailed upon him to sell a single bulb,
那个球茎价值10,000弗罗林 Which was valued at the time at 10,000 florins.
当时荷兰普通工人一年 This was at a time when the average Dutch worker
赚300弗罗林就能养活一家人 would survive with his family for a year on about 300.
有人买"永远的奥古斯特"球茎 And the fact that such sales were being made
出的是大价钱 and for such colossal sums of money,
渐渐大家都知道这事了 gradually became more widely known,
这成了郁金香狂热的开始 and this really was the foundation stone of what became the tulip mania.
狂热达到高潮时 At the height of the tulip mania,
一株郁金香的售价相当于 one tulip sold for an amount equivalent to the price
一幢阿姆斯特丹大运河旁的房子的价格 of one of the Grandest Canal houses in Amsterdam.
按现在的算法 Now, just to put it in contemporary terms,
相当于第五大道上的一幢联排别墅 this is equivalent to say a townhouse on 5th Avenue.
一个郁金香球茎卖到了一千万到一千五百万美元 10 - 15 million dollars for a single tulip bulb.
郁金香球茎交易在1637年2月达到顶峰 The tulip bulb market hit its peak in February 1637.
交易额达到4,000万荷兰盾 There were 40 million Guilders' worth of tulip deals outstanding,
是当时荷兰流通货币总额的六倍多 More than six times the total amount of money there was in circulation.
1637年冬天举行了一场拍卖 There was an auction held in the winter of 1637,
某种很好的郁金香以某一价格放到市场上出售 and some great tulip was put on the market at a certain price.
但没有卖到那个价格 And it didn't get that price.
拍卖人出价不到1000盾 And the auctioneer offered 1,000 Guilders less,
低于1000盾 1,000 Guilders below that,
但是没有人拍 and nobody bid.
估价太高了 The flowers were very overvalued.
人们在赌博 People were risking fortunes,
当然 花市马上崩溃 and of course the whole thing came crashing down at once.
此后不久 And, so very soon after that,
郁金香不值钱了 all these tulips were worthless,
所有炒卖郁金香的人都破产了 and all these people were ruined.
他们投入了大量的金钱 They had put their fortunes in these flowers,
而现在它们不值钱了 and now they were worthless --
不过是植物球茎而已 they were just bulbs of plants.
郁金香狂潮结束了 And that was the end of the tulip mania.
突然间 因其美丽而受人喜爱的郁金香 Suddenly, the flower that was loved for its beauty,
成了人类愚蠢的象征 became a symbol of human folly.
市场崩溃后 荷兰人仇视郁金香 There was a period of Tulip hatred in Holland after the collapse,
因为郁金香是这场经济灾难的罪魁祸首 because it was blamed for this economic disaster.
荷兰莱顿大学一位著名的教授 There was a famous professor in Leiden
拿着棍子到处击打郁金香 摧毁郁金香 who'd run around with a stick beating tulips and destroying them,
当时还出了很多小册子和传单 And there were all these pamphlets and broadsides
申讨郁金香狂热的罪恶 about the evils of the tulip mania,
伟大的妓女女神弗洛拉 and the great whore goddess Flora,
被指责是让荷兰人破产的罪魁祸首 who was blamed for bringing the Dutch down,
好像是花害了他们 as if, you know, it was the flower that did it to them.
这是一段非凡的历史插曲 It's an extraordinary historical episode.
回头看 我们说 And we look back and we look down, and we say,
"他们怎么能那样做" 当然我们也经历过 "how could they do this"? But of course we've been through
投机泡沫 our own speculative bubbles,
不管交易什么 and it doesn't really matter what you're trading --
只要价格飞涨 人人都想入市 as long as the price is going up really fast, everybody wants in.
只要有大傻瓜存在 And as long as there's a greater fool,
就能赚很多钱 a lot of money can be made.
但你可不想在结束时 You just don't want to be left
只是拿着袋子或球茎 holding the bag or the bulb at the end of it.
破产的投资者谁都没想到 What none of the ruined investors
他们视为美的极致的 could possibly have known was that the breaks in color
"打破"颜色 they saw as the epitome of beauty,
实际上是由病毒引起的 were actually caused by a virus.
以第五大道联排别墅价格出售的郁金香球茎 The tulip bulbs that sold for the price of 5th Avenue townhouses,
原来是遭到破坏的东西 turned out to be damaged goods.
这点当时可没人知道 Well, this is something that nobody understood at the time,
我的意思是 在17和18世纪 I mean, no one in the 1600's and the 1700's
无人了解植物疾病 had any notion of plant diseases,
也不知道花的变异 or any idea that the variation in a flower
可能是由疾病之类的东西引起的 could be caused by something like a disease.
曾经将郁金香价格 Today, viruses like the one
推至最高的病毒 that once drove the tulip's value to record heights,
今天是全球郁金香贸易的敌人 are the enemy of the global tulip trade,
因为受感染的球茎不能出口 because infected bulbs cannot be exported.
因此像汉克•古德这样的植物生理学家 So plant physiologists like Henk Gude,
正在努力与病毒做斗争 are working hard to combat them.
被病毒感染的郁金香 不是健康的了 A tulip that is infected with a virus, is not a healthy tulip.
植物要消耗大量的能量 It costs lots of energy for the plant
来对付病毒 to cope with the virus.
如果你年复一年种球茎 And if you replant the bulb year after year,
它的生长潜力会逐渐下降 Then its growing potential will decline over the years.
几年后一株郁金香也不会有了 So, in a few years, you will not have a tulip left.
古德教授就职于荷兰瓦赫宁根大学的 Gude works for the Applied Plant Research Center
应用植物研究中心 at Wageningen university in the Netherlands.
为了了解植物是否被病毒感染 To find out if a plant is infected by a virus,
我们必须将植物单一化 we have to homogenize it,
为了从花中榨出汁液 to squeeze juice from it.
我们可以用实验室技术 And we can detect the presence
检测果汁里是否有病毒 of the virus in the juice with lab techniques.
如果人们了解植物的生长过程 When we understand how the plant grows,
就可以努力让植物做我们想要它做的事 we can try to make the plant do what we want it to do,
就可以立刻应用植物 And immediately apply it
让种植者 育种者和出口商都获益 for the benefit of growers and breeders and exporters.
其中一位叫简•莱哈特的 One of these people is Jan Ligthart,
种郁金香已经30多年了 who has been growing tulips for more than 30 years,
是荷兰最成功的育种家之一 and has become one of Holland's most successful breeders.
从这到那都是新种子 What you see from here to there is all new seedlings.
这是我第一次看到郁金香开花 This is the first time I see them flowering.
我原来想做木匠 I wanted to be a carpenter,
像我爸爸一样和木头打交道 just like my father working with wood.
但当我看到郁金香时我惊呆了 And when I saw the tulips, I was astonished.
我说 啊 我就想做这个 I said, "Ah! That's what I want to be!"
种郁金香的人 Tulip gardener.
莱哈特培育新品种的第一步是 Ligthart's first step in breeding a new variety,
像人类大黄蜂一样行动 is to act like a human bumblebee,
将花粉从一个地方运到另一个地方 moving pollen from one place to another.
这个过程很简单 The process is quite simple.
我们用一朵郁金香作雄株 We use one tulip as the father,
另一朵作为雌株 and the other just like the mother.
之后授粉 And we make pollination.
现在培育郁金香的园丁 对新组合很感兴趣 The breeders of tulips today are interested in new combinations.
他们都是性狂人 对吧 They're sex crazy, right?
你知道 他们在经营"植物妓院" They're operating these, you know, "plant brothels",
这样才会育出大量的新品种 and out of that comes a great deal of variation.
物种的未来在于这些新品种 And out of that variation is the future of the species.
授花粉只要几秒钟 Dabbing the pollen takes just a few seconds.
但莱哈特要花数年时间才能确认 But it can take years before Ligthart can be sure
他的新品种会不断长出 that his new variety will consistently produce flowers
具有市场要求的质量的花 with the qualities the market demands,
例如持久性 抗病害的能力和美丽 like durability, disease resistance, and beauty.
就这些了 That's enough.
上千株幼苗中只有一个是我想要的 One of the thousand seedlings are what I want.
剩下的都不够好 The rest is not good enough.
这是最难的事 That's the hardest part.
得注意第一个 唯一好的一个 You have to look out for the first, the only good one.
今年莱哈特将希望寄托在 This year, Ligthart is pinning his hopes
他从最近做的一次育种实验中获得的球茎上 on the bulbs from one of his latest breeding experiments.
这种郁金香是我的最爱 This tulip, that is my favorite.
前景会很好 I give it a big future.
纯粉的颜色 Just the right color.
很正 Pure pink.
这个是我9年前 从种子开始培育的 This one I started nine years ago, with seeds.
第一次看到这种郁金香在我的苗圃里盛放时 When I saw this tulip blooming for the first time,
我惊呆了 in my seedlings, I was just amazed.
我跪在地上 I sat there on my knees,
久久地盯着那些花儿 and looked at them for a long time.
路边其他的郁金香 Other tulips, you walk by
不敢触到你 and it doesn't venture to do anything to you.
看到这个 And when you see this one,
你会怦然心动 your heart gets...ck-ck!
这花很不一样 This makes a difference.
每次看着这郁金香 Each time I look at it...
我都会爱上它 I fall in love on the tulip.
但是莱哈特对郁金香的爱不会阻止 But Ligthart's love for his tulips doesn't stop him
他和家人每年春天将郁金香的花茎 and his family from ripping the flowers
从泥土中拔出来 off their stalks every spring.
不这么做 If they didn't,
营养就会从球茎中流失 the flowers would divert nutrients from the bulbs,
对像莱哈特这样的栽培者来说 which, for a breeder like Ligthart,
成本就会提高 are what brings in the money.
我想给郁金香 What I want to do for a tulip
创造一个更大的全球市场 is to create a much bigger market for the whole world.
因为郁金香必须赚钱 Because a tulip must make money.
这是生意 It's a business.
不是好玩 You can't have them for fun,
我们得谋生 because we have to make a living.
莱哈特最好的郁金香 Ligthart's best tulips
经常被介绍给其他地方的人 often get introduced to the rest of the world here,
在阿姆斯特丹附近的库肯霍夫花园 at the Keukenhof Gardens near Amsterdam.
每年春天有50万游客 Every spring, half a million visitors
蜂拥而至观看花园里450万棵郁金香球茎 flock here to see the four and a half million bulbs
这些球茎使得这个公园成了全球最大的郁金香公园 that make it the largest tulip garden in the world.
荷兰人已经掌握了郁金香的繁育技术 The Dutch have mastered the propagation of tulips.
荷兰有人靠郁金香赚了大钱 And there are people in Holland making great fortunes off of tulips yet again.
郁金香种植再也不是泡沫 而是成熟的产业了 It's not a bubble anymore, it's a mature industry.
利润丰厚的产业 And a very lucrative one.
繁忙的交易中心证明 Whose bustling nerve center proves
人们是多么乐意努力 just how hard we're willing to work
将花卉出口到全世界 to spread flowers around the world.
全球每三朵花中有一朵在此交易 One out of every three flowers bought and sold in the worldpasses through here.
这里是荷兰阿斯米尔市的花卉交易市场 This is the flower auction in the Dutch town of Aalsmeer.
你不能进入花卉拍卖层 You're not allowed on the auction floor,
因为大量运货小车在快速移动 because there are a million carts zipping around at alarmingly high speeds.
这是花卉的海洋 And it is like a sea of flowers.
就像看着在调色盘里混合的颜料 It's almost like watching paint being mixed on a palette.
当你看着一行 You know, you watch this line
黄色的太阳花蜿蜒远去 of yellow sunflowers snaking their way
穿过红色郁金香的海洋时 through this ocean of red tulips,
你会眼花缭乱 it's just dazzling in that way.
拍卖层的面积 The floor of the flower auction covers
大过200个足球场 an area bigger than 200 football fields,
是地球上最大的建筑之一 making it one of the largest buildings on the planet.
每天有1900万朵来自世界各地的鲜花在此交易 Some 19 million flowers from all over the world change hands here every day.
系统极其复杂 It's an extraordinarily complex system,
但目的非常简单 with a very simple purpose --
将花朵从地里尽快运到家里 to move flowers from the field to the home as quickly as possible.
花卉贸易中三件事非常重要 In flower business, three things are very important,
那就是快 快 快 And that's being fast, being fast, and being fast,
因为今天的鲜花 because the flower that's fresh today
放到明天就会贬值15% will lose 15% of its value tomorrow.
花被摘下的那一刻就开始死亡 The minute you cut it, it starts to die.
鲜花买卖就像竞赛 There is this race on to get it to market.
交易一达成 Once the deal is struck,
易腐烂的花会被紧急送到阿姆斯特丹机场 the perishable flowers are rushed to the Amsterdam airport,
从那里运往世界各地的花店 and from there to flower shops all over the world.
这场马不停蹄的花朵和金钱运动 This incessant, unrelenting movement of flowers and money,
一刻也不能放松 doesn't let up for a second.
都只为一种产品 All for a product,
一种完全没有实用价值的产品 that has absolutely no practical value.
鲜花是精美的无用之物 Flowers are exquisitely useless.
是我们生活中的大泡沫或奢侈品 They're this great froth or extravagance in our lives.
但这美丽却无用之物 But that there is a multi-billion-dollar trade
每年的贸易额达到了数十亿美元 in these wonderfully useless, beautiful things,
挺了不得的了 it's kind of great.
当你开始从植物的角度看世界时 When you begin to look at the plant's point of view,
我想对你生存最大的威胁是 I suppose the greatest t hreat to your survival
人们对你不感兴趣了 过时了 is people losing interest in you, falling out of fashion.
你知道 桂竹香和石竹花 You know, the gillyflower or the pink,
是维多利亚时期重要的花卉 these were important Victorian flowers.
但现在我不都知道它们长什么样子了 I don't even know what they look like.
所以花卉必须使人们对其永远有兴趣 So the flower has to keep us interested.
而方式之一就是改变 And one of the ways a flower keeps us interested is changing.
真正聪明的花有办法吸引 The really ingenious ones are the ones that figure out ways
每一代人的兴趣 to reengage us every generation.
翻译
李可心 韩易博 0 谢帅 朱晓芳 李书华 莲子心 小闹闹
大麻
刘一方 方海龙 曹绍玮 刘鑫磊 张洪林 侯长文 蔡心培 喻杰
大麻
瘾
大麻
瘾
大麻
瘾
植物和人一样 In the plant world,
不是每种都漂亮 just like our own, not everyone can be beautiful,
都甜的 or sweet.
但即使是不起眼的杂草也能让我们为之劳作 But even a lowly weed can get us to work for it,
就像奴隶一样 and quite slavishly, at that.
假如每种植物都能有意识地利用 If it's clever enough to cash in on a skill
自己与生俱来的 that every plant is born with --
制造化学物质的能力 its ability to make chemicals.
植物的特征 The genius of plants
实际上是生物化学的艺术品 is really the arts of biochemistry,
创造出来的是真正有趣的 creating these really interesting,
复杂的 原始的分子 complicated, original molecules.
有些分子掌管口味 Some are designed to produce flavors.
有的掌管美丽 Others are designed to produce great beauty.
然后就有了这类 And then you've got this class of plants
制造这些分子的植物 that is producing these molecules,
那些植物具有惊人的 that, incredibly, have the power
改变人类想法的力量 to alter what goes on in the human mind.
就因为有了那样的分子 This plant, by making just such a molecule,
这种植物使人类将其传播到了世界各地 has gotten us to spread it all over the world.
科学家们称其为cannabis(大麻) Scientists call it cannabis.
更广为人知的名字是marijuana(大麻) It is better known as marijuana.
打个比方 大麻认为 Cannabis recognized, metaphorically speaking,
这是它统治世界的手段 that this was its path to world domination.
这种分子生成得越多 Produce more of this molecule,
这种动物就会给更多的大麻栖息地 and there will be more marijuana plants
因为这种动物喜欢这种分子的作用 given more habitat by this creature who likes what this molecule seems to do.
研究这种分子怎样发挥作用时 And by trying to figure out just how that molecule works,
科学家无意中对人脑的运行 scientists stumbled on an amazing discovery
有了惊人的发现 about the workings of our brains.
所以这种植物开启了卓有成效的 This plant has opened up this very fruitful path of inquiry
对于记忆原理 into understanding how memory works,
意识原理 情感原理的研究 how consciousness works, how emotion works.
我们已经解码了整个机制 We have unlocked this whole mechanism
我们曾经都不知道其存在的 which we didn't know existed.
没有这种植物 我们也知道不了 And we would not know existed, if not for this plant.
人类有种与生俱来的欲望 Human beings are born with an innate drive
时不时想去体验别的感觉 to experience other states of consciousness periodically.
在很小就开始打转的孩子身上 I think you can see this in young kids,
可以看到这一点 who begin spinning at early ages.
游乐园的过山车也是为这个目的而设的 Amusement park rides serve the same purpose.
很多的活动 There's an endless stream of activities
比如唱歌 跳舞 做爱 跳伞 that can shift consciousness, everything from singing,
都能改变人的感觉 dancing, having sex, jumping out of airplanes.
吸毒无疑也是获得这类体验的方式 And drugs are clearly one way of getting these experiences.
人们喜欢那种改变了的感觉 People like to have that altered consciousness.
我没说那很好 但是 I'm not saying that's good, but it's,
人们想要 individuals seek it out.
似乎很久以前 Marijuana seems to have made
大麻就决定进化 an evolutionary decision long ago that it was
要和人类共命运 going to throw its lot in with human beings.
从植物的角度来说 From the plant's point of view,
心理活动是很诱人的特证 the psycho-activity is an attractive characteristic
可以给它们带来胜利 which has brought the plant great success.
现在种植的大麻更多了 There's a lot more marijuana being grown today,
因为人们喜欢大麻 and the reason is that humans like it.
抽大麻让人们兴奋 They like it because it gets them high.
也让人们被关起来 But cannabis can also get them locked up.
每年大约有75000人因携带大麻被拘留 There are about 750,000 arrests a year for cannabis possession,
在所有犯罪中排名第三 makes it about third among all crimes.
任何时候都有25,000 到30,000人 And so you've got 25,000 or 30,000 people
因为大麻犯罪在坐牢 behind bars at any one time for cannabis offenses.
但大麻仍然诱使 But marijuana still entices
近一千五百万美国人每月吸食 nearly 15 million Americans to smoke it every month.
近一亿美国人吸食过大麻 And nearly 100 million have tried it.
为满足市场需求 To keep up with that demand,
大麻种植户迎合大麻的所有任性 cannabis growers cater to the plant's every whim.
局面要失控了 是吗 We're going to lose that tap, aren't we?
-没错 -是啊 看那边 - Yes. - Yeah, look at that.
把它宠得像惯坏了的小孩 Pampering it like a spoiled child.
长势不错 Nice and healthy.
大麻要我们做什么我们就做什么 We do anything it tells us to.
大麻说要什么 我们就乖乖给什么 If the plant says it wants something, we listen and we give it to it.
就这样 And that's the whole thing.
仔细听 一直听 Listening carefully, and we're listening all the time,
一直观察 and observing all the time.
我们为大麻卖力 We work for them.
在这位女士和先生住的州 This man and woman live in a state
种植医用大麻是合法的 where growing marijuana for medical use is legal.
我们同意不透露他们的身份 We agreed to conceal their identities,
因为他们仍然可能被联邦法院指控 because they still risk prosecution under federal law.
是啊 真漂亮 Yeah, that's a beauty.
不管有怎样的法律风险 But whatever the legal risks,
他们面临的园艺方面的挑战 the horticultural challenges they face
任何农场主或花匠都熟悉 would be familiar to any farmer or gardener.
每天都要尽力 It's a daily effort.
事情很多 比如 And there are things like,
"哦 我们在水里加了过多营养物质吗 "Oh, did we over-nutriate the water?
水里加的营养物质不够吗" Did we under-nutriate the water?"
任何事情都有非常严格的参数 Everything has really tight parameters,
我们应该尽可能严格地控制 and we try to keep as tight as control as possible,
但这是 是一场战斗 but it's, it's a battle.
我的伙伴是这个公司里真正的园艺高手 My associate is really the green thumb in this enterprise.
我注意到如果她几天没来 And I've noticed that when she's not around for a couple of days,
植物也知道 the plants know it.
我没胡编 I mean, I'm not making that up.
植物真的知道 They literally know it.
我似乎听到大麻悄悄说 "她在哪里" I mean, I almost hear them whispering, "where is she?"
你知道 他们做得并不好 They don't do as well, you know,
不那么快乐 they don't seem as happy.
奇怪的是 这些大麻种植主 Strange as it may seem, these cannabis growers
已经成了悠久传统的一部分 are part of a very long tradition.
在每种文化和每一段历史中 In every culture and in every age of history,
人们投入了大量的精力 an enormous amount of human energy has gone into
来种植 分配 消费影响精神的植物 the production, distribution, and consumption of psychoactive plants.
我们所知的唯一没有种植过毒品的 The only society that we know of for whom there is no native intoxicant
是因纽特人 只是因为 are the Inuits, and that's simply because
那里长的东西他们都用不上 nothing grows up there that they could use.
几乎每个社会 In almost every society,
都有一两种或少量的麻醉剂被接受 one or two or a small number of intoxicants are accepted.
或不仅被接受 还被积极推广使用 And not only accepted, but their use is actively promoted.
其他的麻醉剂会受到谴责 And the rest are condemned.
但不同文化对哪些是好的麻醉剂 But there's no agreement from culture to culture
哪些是坏的麻醉剂没有共识 as to which are the good ones and which are the bad ones.
所以酒精是我们社会的日用药 So you have alcohol which is an everyday drug used in our society,
而酒精在伊斯兰社会是禁忌 that has a taboo on it in Islamic society.
尽管大麻现在在大多数地方都是违法的 And though cannabis is illegal in most places today,
纵观历史 许多文化都容忍了酒精 many cultures throughout history have tolerated it.
从几千年前 在印度和中国 From the time the plant was first discovered
人类第一次发现大麻后 in India and China thousands of years ago,
人们不仅仅把它看做是麻醉剂 people have seen it as more than just an intoxicant.
阿司匹林出现前很久 Long before the discovery of aspirin,
大麻就被用来缓解疼痛了 cannabis was used as a medical treatment for relieving pain.
你知道的 缓解疼痛 Dealing with pain, you know,
是人类生活很重要的一部分 that's a tremendous part of human life.
在古代 缓解疼痛更是大事 And it was a bigger part before modern times.
那时人们干的都是体力活 We all did physical labor.
没有多少止疼药 We didn't have many painkillers,
没有抗生素 we didn't have antibiotics.
尽管不能像鸦片那样减少疼痛 And a lot of intoxicants, even if they don't
很多麻醉剂至少能帮你 diminish pain, the way opium does,
转移注意力 they take your mind off it.
这非常非常重要 And that's very, very important.
在19世纪的美国 In 19th-century America,
大麻经常用来治疗 cannabis was a popular treatment for conditions
产痛 哮喘 风湿病等 such as labor pains, asthma, and rheumatism.
你可以走进美国任何一家药店买大麻药酒 You could walk into any drug store in America and buy tinctures of cannabis.
各种医药制剂中都有大麻 Cannabis was included in all sorts of medical preparations.
而且是合法的 And it was legal.
但到了20世纪一切又变了 But everything would change in the 20th century,
这种植物有了新名字 marijuana when the plant got its new name, marijuana.
这名字来自墨西哥 The name came from Mexico,
大麻在墨西哥是很流行的麻醉剂 where cannabis was a popular intoxicant.
事实上潘乔•维拉的叛军 In fact, Pancho Villa's rebel army
唱了一首关于蟑螂的行军歌 sang a marching song about a cockroach
而蟑螂吸食大麻给自己加油 who fueled himself with marijuana.
20世纪20年代 很多墨西哥人移民到了美国 During the 1920s, many Mexicans immigrated to the United States.
有些人带去了吸食大麻的习俗 And some brought the custom of marijuana smoking with them.
吸食大麻的现象 Cannabis was certainly
在墨西哥裔美国人中更常见 more common among Mexican Americans,
在某种程度上 在20-30年代 非裔美国人 and to some extent, among African Americans
抽大麻的也比白人多 in the '20s and '30s than it was among Whites.
我的意思是 你会发现 I mean, you'd find it, you know,
大麻在新奥尔良的音乐界非常受欢迎 very popular in the music scene in new Orleans,
尤其受非裔美国音乐家的青睐 very popular among African American musicians.
爵士界充斥着大麻 The jazz world was really soaked in cannabis.
伟大的路易斯•姆斯特朗 The great Louis Armstrong
认为大麻增强了他即兴创作的能力 felt marijuana enhanced his ability to improvise.
大麻让音乐人 Cannabis proposes this idea
感到时间停止 能探索当下 of time stopping, being able to explore the present moment
忘记过去 忘记未来 forget the past, forget the future,
就在那里 看看能想出什么来 just be there and see what you can come up with.
即使只是一首已经演奏过的歌 Even if it's a song you've played
从前演奏过无数次 也能推陈出新 a million times before, it becomes new.
奇妙 精彩 Strange, wonderful.
你会看到以前没有的可能性 You see new possibilities in it that weren't there before.
19世纪60年代 大麻的使用量飙升 In the 1960s, use of marijuana soared.
大麻非法了二十多年 The drug had been illegal for more than 20 years.
但没能阻止整整一代人抽大麻 But that didn't stop an entire generation from embracing it.
大麻很契合那个时代的精神 It was well suited to the spirit of that time.
你知道 每种毒品都有自己的特性 You know, every drug has its character,
而大麻的特点 and cannabis's character
不是使你兴奋 使你努力工作 is not about being hyper and working really hard.
而是使你不想奋斗 It is a drug that makes you not want to strive.
只想放松下来 听听音乐 It's about kicking back, listening to music.
因此这很符合60年代的精神 So it just kind of fit the spirit of the 60's.
大麻似乎是支持你的举动的 Marijuana seems to second the motion,
不管是什么举动 no matter what the motion is.
对很多美国人来说 To many Americans,
数百万年轻人吸食大麻的现实 the fact that millions of young people were smoking marijuana
威胁着社会的结构 threatened the very fabric of society.
那些担忧促使政府采取行动 Those fears prompted the government to take action.
拦截行动目的在于 Operation intercept is designed to make it
让大麻难以进入美国 more difficult to bring marijuana into the country.
美国大部分的大麻来自墨西哥 Most of the marijuana was coming in from Mexico,
大麻很快发现自己被攻击 and the plant soon found itself under attack.
武器是一种叫百草枯的有毒化学物质 The weapon -- a toxic chemical called paraquat.
我们得记住 在物种的进化过程中 We have to remember that in the evolution of a species,
一切都可以是自然选择的动力 everything counts as a factor of natural selection,
包括美国政府在70年代决定 including things like, oh, the decision by the United States government in the 70's
向墨西哥施压 to pressure Mexico to spray
让他们在大麻田里喷洒除草剂 herbicide on their pot fields.
从1975到1983年 墨西哥飞行员 From 1975 to 1983, Mexican pilots
向大麻田喷洒大量杀虫剂 doused the country's cannabis fields with the poison.
有人担心如果在喷完药后马上收割 There was some concern that it would get into the product coming north
杀虫剂会进入北方的产品中 if it was cut right after it was sprayed.
如果人们吸进了杀虫剂 身体会受影响 And that, as people inhaled this, it probably wasn't very good for you.
这是位于加州帕洛阿尔托的药物检测实验室 This is a drug-testing lab in Palo Alto, California.
实验室的研究人员每天收到 The people here are receiving
300份大麻样品 300 samples of marijuana a day from smokers
寄样品的人想知道自己的大麻是否被污染 from smokers who want to know if their pot is contaminated.
人们为此很担忧 很焦急 People are extremely anxious about this problem,
说实话 我并不责怪他们 and frankly, I don't blame them.
此后墨西哥的大麻名声大跌 Mexican marijuana began to develop a very bad name.
出现了意想不到的结果 This had the unintended consequence
那就是美国国内有了大麻产业 of creating a domestic marijuana industry
这是前所未有的 that hadn't really existed before.
美国大麻产业集中在 It was concentrated
加利福尼亚 夏威夷和其他 in California, Hawaii, and other states
气候适宜热带植物生长的州 whose climate was favorable for the tropical plant.
美国大麻产业 Once this American marijuana agriculture
一开始就非常 非常成功 got started, it was very, very successful,
政府都惊讶于一年内 and the government was kind of shocked to find one year
检获的大麻总量 that the total amount seized
超过了预期的作物的总量 exceeded their estimate of the total size of the crop.
政府意识到 "哦 我们遗漏了什么 And they realized, "ooh, I think we're missing something.
外面一定还有大量的大麻" There must be a lot more marijuana out there."
实际上 整个西海岸种的都是大麻 And indeed, there was, all over the west coast.
政府派直升飞机 The government dispatched helicopters
去寻找大麻地 强迫种植者停种 to find the fields and force the growers out of business.
当地和联邦官员突击检查 When local and federal agents raided
这块现在位于加州北部的大麻种植地时 this marijuana field in northern California today,
他们发现了价值超过50,000美元的 they found more than $50,000 worth
大麻正等待收割 of marijuana ready to be harvested.
一个特别小组对大麻发动了全面战争 A task force is waging an all-out war against pot.
随着大麻抵制战的兴起 在一定程度上 So, with the rise of the drug war, in a way,
大麻受到了威胁 you've got a threat to this plant.
看大麻如何应对威胁 是很有意思的 And it's very interesting to see how the plant coped.
像其他植物经常做的那样 Cannabis, as plants so often do,
大麻不仅在威胁战中生存了下来 found a way not only to survive the threat,
还活得更好了 but to come out ahead.
怎么回事呢 And what happened?
大麻种植者和大麻 Well, the growers and the plant
找到办法了 他们转向室内 adapted -- they moved indoors.
室内种植的问题是 The problem with moving indoors is,
大麻可是高达12英尺啊 this is a 12-foot-tall plant.
所以需要将较矮的大麻基因 So what they needed were the genes of a shorter cannabis plant
和高的大麻基因杂交 to breed with their tall plant.
所以室内种植大麻的先行者 So the pioneers of indoor growing
将喜热的高株大麻--桑麻 cross-bred the tall warm-weather species, cannabis sativa,
和主要在亚洲发现的一种较矮的山地品种--印度大麻 with a low-growing mountain species found mostly in Asia,
杂交 Cannabis indica.
将这两个伟大的血统带进大麻家族 They brought together these two great strains in the marijuana family,
繁殖出一种植株矮 生长周期短 枝叶壮的新品种 and created a plant that was short, fast, and strong.
大麻曾经是长在水沟里的细草 The plant, which had once been a skinny little piece of ditch weed,
现在是娇惯的 好看的 is now a pampered, spectacularly good-looking,
多彩的 昂贵的 黏黏的植物了 multi-colored, rich, resinous being.
和从前的物种完全不同了 Hardly the species it was before at all.
完全变成了另一种植物 It's turned completely into something else.
在有创造力的室内园丁的培养下 Nurtured by creative indoor gardeners,
相较于上一代的大麻 cannabis is now a far more potent plant
现在的大麻麻醉力更强了 than it was a generation ago.
转变的关键是扔掉自然法则 The key to that transformation was stripping away
以我们自己的法则代替 the rule of nature and replacing it with our own.
这是人造的环境 完全人造的 It's an artificial environment, completely artificial.
关于自然世界的一切都不自然 Everything about our natural world is unnatural, everything.
很像超级植物 It's really like a super-plant.
自然世界里的播种到收割过程 In the natural world, the plants here would be
要六到九个月的时间 six to nine months from seed to harvest.
效率太低了 That's just simply inefficient.
你不能用这么慢的速度来证明行动的合理性 You couldn't justify an operation with such a slow turnaround.
因此不用六到九个月了 在我这里 So, instead of six to nine months, in my world,
大麻90天就可以收割了 These plants live their entire life cycle in 90 days.
为了使其快速成长 To get them to do that,
大麻的营养 水分还有光照 the plants are subjected to precisely controlled amounts of
受到了精确的控制 nutrients, water, and light.
大麻被24小时置于 They're under lights that are blindingly bright,
几千瓦特的炫目灯光下 thousands of watts, 24 hours a day.
就像在做日光浴 大麻也喜欢日光浴 And these plants are just, like, soaking up this light -- they love it.
我想说的是 强光照着大麻长得更快 I mean, they're just bathing in light and growing so fast,
几乎可以听见大麻细胞伸展和分裂时 you can almost hear the creak of their cells
发出的声音 as they stretch and divide.
强光产生巨大的热量 All that light generates a tremendous amount of heat.
如果没有空调 If I didn't have air conditioning
空气不循环 也没有通风风扇 and air circulation and ventilation fans
将热量排出房间 moving the heat out of that room,
几小时后这些植物会热死 these plants would cook in a matter of hours.
过程很复杂 我们不够聪明 做不了 It's so complicated, we're not smart enough to do it.
我们得请专职的电子保姆 We have to have a full-time electronic nanny
来全天候照看这些大麻 watching the plants all the time.
所以这些不是普通大麻 So these aren't normal plants.
是超级大麻 These are super-hyper plants
它们随时都处于危险边缘 that are right on the edge at all times.
种植者追求的不只是更快的收获 It's not just a quicker harvest the growers are after,
还有更大的花蕾和更强的麻醉力 but a bigger bud and a stronger high.
为了实现这个目标 To achieve that,
种植者干扰自然生长过程 they interfere with the natural process.
雌性大麻生产一种粘性树脂 Female marijuana plants produce a sticky resin
可以粘住雄性大麻生产的花粉 that catches the pollen that male plants produce.
还能对精神产生很大的影响 That resin is highly psychoactive.
为了使雌株产生更多的粘性树脂 To trick the females into making more of it,
种植者将雄性大麻移出种植房 the growers keep male plants exiled from the grow room.
所以本质上你看见的的性 是极度扭曲的 So, in essence, what you're seeing is extreme sexual frustration.
房间里只有雌株 This is a room full of women
它们渴望雄株过来 who are looking for some guy to come by
给它们花粉来生产种子 and give them some pollen so they can create seeds.
随着时间的推移她们越来越努力 And they try harder and harder as time passes,
而越不成功 and the more unsuccessful they are,
它们为吸引花粉 the more the production of the resins
而产生的粘性树脂就越多 that is intended to attract pollen increase,
这也提高了大麻对精神产生影响的元素 and that increases the psychoactive elements of the plant.
他们是我这一代最好的园丁 They are the best gardeners of my generation,
我突然意识到这一点 I realized at a certain point.
你知道 我这一代最好的园丁 You know, the best gardeners of my generation
不在杂交玫瑰 不在种兰花 are not hybridizing roses, are not, you know, working with Orchids.
而在种植价格惊人的 They're working with this incredibly valuable,
极其有趣的植物--大麻 incredibly interesting plant called cannabis.
如果这变成好东西的话 If this turns into anything good,
但是 瞧瞧这东西 though, look at it, I mean,
要开花的时候 大麻梗有这么粗 this is how thick the stalk iswhen it's just gone to bloom.
很好看 It's got a beautiful shape. It is nice.
我想说 想想吧 I mean, think about it.
这东西就是草 草而已 This thing's a weed. It's a weed.
在公开市场上值钱的草 It's a weed that's worth, you know, in the open market,
每磅卖到6000或7000美元 like, you know, $6,000, $7,000 a pound.
价格了得 是吧 Pretty good for a weed, huh?
大麻能卖这个价钱 But cannabis only fetches that price
只因为它能产生一种特殊的 使人兴奋的分子 because of that one particular molecule it makes that gets people high.
名叫THC(四氢大麻酚) Its name is THC,
这种物质1964年由化学家拉斐尔•麦科兰 and it was discovered back in 1964
在耶路撒冷的一个实验室里发现 in a lab in Jerusalem by chemist Raphael Mechoulam.
很奇怪 人们对大麻的研究不够 Cannabis had not been well investigated, which was strange --
毕竟数百万人非法或合法地用着大麻 after all, it was being used illegally or legally by millions of people.
但我们对其了解并不多 And yet we didn't know that much about it.
所以我认为 应该从现代的角度 重新审视大麻 So I thought, it's a good idea to look at it again from a modern point of view.
在实验室里 麦科兰和同事们将大麻分解 In the lab, Mechoulam and his colleagues broke cannabis down
专门研究其中可能起作用的的化学成分 and zeroed in on the chemical components that might be causing its effects.
我们分离出来大约十种化合物 We isolated about 10 compounds.
让人吃惊的是 在那10种化合物中 Surprisingly, out of the 10 compounds we isolated,
只有一种 only one --
我们现在熟知的 which now is known as
Δ9-四氢大麻酚, 简称THC Delta-9-tetrahydrocannabinol, in short, THC,
有众所周知的麻醉作用 only one causes the well-known high.
我们在很多朋友身上做了测试 We tested it in humans -- many of my friends,
我们看到这种化合物 有我们预期的作用 and we saw that the compound is effective, as we expected it to be.
知道四氢大麻酚的存在就解决了一个问题 The identification of THC answered one question,
但又有了另外一个问题-- But raised another --
它是怎样影响人的大脑的呢 just what did it do to the brain?
我一直认为 人们知道大麻是怎样起作用的 I had always assumed that people knew how marijuana worked.
实际上 开始读文献时 It surprised me, actually, when I began
我吃惊地发现 looking in the research literature, that --
显然没人真正明白大麻是怎样起作用的 that it was really clear that no one really knew how it worked.
1998年 艾琳•霍利特找到了答案 In 1988, Allyn Howlett found the answer.
她发现在大脑深处 She discovered that, deep inside the brain,
四氢大麻酚分子激活以前未知的 THC molecules activate a previously unknown network
专门的化学受体网络 of specialized chemical receptors.
四氢大麻酚进入大脑中的受体蛋白 So that was proof that there is a receptor protein in the brain,
就像钥匙插进锁里一样 that combined to the THC like a key in a lock.
这个发现非常令人兴奋 It was very exciting, because
因为对我们来说这意味着 because what that meant to us was,
我们的研究有了一个工具 we had a tool that could be used for studying,
其他研究人员也可以用 and other researchers could use it, as well.
人们可以研究受体在大脑中的位置 And people could study where the receptor was in the brain.
霍利特和其他科学家 Howlett and other scientists found the receptors
在形成记忆的海马趾内 in the hippocampus, which forms memories;
控制运动的小脑内 the cerebellum, which controls movement;
和我们认为的额叶皮质层中 发现了受体 and the frontal cortex, where we think.
这就是受体 Here were these receptors,
世界上一种植物生产的化学物质 that this chemical produced by a plant out in the world
正好有精确的解锁密码 just so happened to have the precise combination to unlock.
这是多么不寻常的事啊 What an extraordinary thing that is.
受体网络存在就为使人们兴奋吗 Is that why that receptor network existed, so that people could get high?
我们没有那样的受体 We don't have those receptors
使人们抽大麻时感到兴奋 just so that people can get high smoking pot.
受体在神经元中形成 这样受体可以 Receptors are developed in neurons so that they can communicate
与身体制造的化学物质交流 with a chemical that the body makes.
这就是进入并设法提取 So that was the logic behind going in
大脑中的化合物这一做法背后的逻辑 and trying to extract a compound in the brain
那种化合物会像大麻那样起作用 that would act just like marijuana did.
1992年的研究发现 And in 1992, proof came that the brain
大脑确实会生成一种非常像四氢大麻酚的化合物 does make a compound very much like THC.
发现者是拉斐尔•麦科兰 不是别人 It was discovered by none other than Raphael Mechoulam,
他将其命名为"大麻素" who named it anandamide.
我们称之为"大脑自己的大麻" We call it "the brain's own marijuana",
因为这种大脑生成的化合物 大麻素 because the compound that is made by the brain -- anandamide
拥有四氢大麻酚所有的属性 shares all the properties,
不管是在受体层面还是在细胞层面 in terms of at the receptor level and cellular level, that THC has.
结果是 当大麻素在大脑中 It turns out that when anandamide
像大麻一样被释放时 is released in the brain, like marijuana,
就会影响食欲 疼痛感和记忆这些人的基本感知 it affects such basic things as appetite, pain, and memory.
在一种有时被低估的心理功能中 And it plays a critical role
大麻素也起着很重要的作用 in a sometimes underappreciated mental function --
那就是遗忘 forgetting.
第一次听说有遗忘药时 When I first heard that,
我不太能接受 it didn't seem adaptive to me, to have a drug for forgetting.
在我们的理解中 对生存来说 记忆必不可少 Memory, we understand, has great survival utility.
当你知道那蘑菇有毒 You know, you learn that that's a poisonous mushroom
那是危险的动物时 or that's a dangerous animal,
你离得远远的 并记住了这些 and you stay away and you remember that.
那为什么要遗忘呢 But why would forgetting be adaptive?
我向麦科兰先生请教这个问题 And I asked Mechoulam this question,
他说 "好吧 告诉我 你真的想要记住 and he said, "well, tell me, do you really want to remember
今天早上你在地铁上见到过的所有面孔吗" all the faces you saw on the subway this morning?"
好好地忘记几乎和好好地记住同样重要 Forgetting well is almost as important as remembering well.
遗忘和编辑有关 Forgetting is about editing.
当信息如洪水 海浪一般 It's about taking the flood, the ocean
向你涌来时 of sense information coming at you,
必须忘记所有不重要的东西 and forgetting everything but what's important.
生活不只是收集新记忆 So life is not just about accumulating new memories.
记忆也会使我们瘫痪 Memory can cripple us, too.
从战场归来的士兵 You have soldiers returning from war zones,
深受战争经历的创伤 that are traumatized by experiences
无法忘却 that in effect they can't unlearn.
所以如果你能帮他们遗忘 So if you could help them unlearn that --
真正地遗忘 essentially, a productive kind of forgetting,
用药或者别的方法 either with a drug or some other kind of regime,
那会是很有意义的 that would be incredibly useful.
这正是阿伦•莱西特曼在努力做的事 And that's exactly what Aron Lichtman is trying to do.
他在研究老鼠怎样记忆和忘记 He's studying how mice remember, and, forget.
他先训练老鼠在水里找平台 First, he trains them to find an underwater platform.
老鼠生来就会游泳 但它们会设法逃离 The mice are natural swimmers, but they're looking for a way out.
老鼠在水箱里游来游去 They swim all around the perimeter of the tank.
拼命地游 游 游 They're swimming, swimming, swimming.
有时候无意间碰到水里的平台 Sometimes they bump into the platform by mistake,
老鼠就会爬上去 and they climb onto it.
有时候怎么也碰不到 Other times, they never find it.
这种状况持续一段时间后 So at this point, it's been at it for a while.
实验者就得轻轻引导老鼠去寻找平台 And the experimenter has to gently guide them to it
或者将老鼠放在平台上 or place them on the platform.
然后莱西特曼将平台撤走 Then, Lichtman takes the platform away.
正常的老鼠很快就意识到平台不在了 A normal mouse quickly realizes the platform is gone.
但大麻素受体受阻的老鼠 But a mouse whose anandamide receptors have been blocked
不能忘记 is unable to forget.
它们没学会放弃 They don't learn to give up.
他们不停地寻找那个平台 即使平台已经撤掉了 They keep on looking for that platform, even though it's gone.
莱西特曼那样的科学家希望 Scientists like Lichtman hope
哪一天学会调节人体内的大麻素 that learning how to regulate anandamide may one day
就有办法治疗那些被痛苦记忆困扰的人了 lead to treatments for people who are haunted by their memories.
如果能够提高人体内自然产生的大麻素 If they can elevate naturally occurring anandamide in humans,
我们可能有全新的手段 we might be able to have whole new
治疗创伤后应激综合征 therapeutic targets to treat post-traumatic stress syndrome.
利用存在千年的植物 我们发现了 By using a plant that has been around for thousands of years, we discovered
一种新的非常重要的生理系统 a new physiological system of immense importance.
不研究大麻 我们不可能有那样的发现 We wouldn't have been able to get there if we had not looked at a plant.
这些植物一直在经历 These plants are constantly undergoing
这样的改变 这样的再改变 this revision and this re-revision
在我们的文化想象中 in our cultural imagination,
这取决于大麻对人类的作用 depending on what uses they're playing for us.
大麻是魔鬼 还是救世主呢 Are they demons or are they, you know, saviors?
先看看苹果吧 We see it with the apple,
其形象是从邪恶到健康再到邪恶的 which went from evil to wholesome to evil.
再看看大麻 And we see it with marijuana,
大麻曾被视为邪恶之物 which also has had these periods of evil,
也被反文化人士颂扬过 and this period of being celebrated by the counterculture.
你想要大麻令你振奋还是放松 Is it more uplifting or more relaxing for your body that you're after?
振奋 Uplifting.
有名的颂扬大麻的地方 是阿姆斯特丹 One place that's well known for celebrating cannabis is Amsterdam.
我们有可爱的湿婆 We have the shiva, which is lovely.
尽管大麻在这里不是完全合法的 Though marijuana is not fully legal here,
特许咖啡店可以合法出售大麻 it can be legally sold and smoked
人们可以在那里合法吸食大麻 in licensed coffee shops,
这吸引了从世界各地来的游客 drawing tourists from around the world.
好极了 来10根吧 Fantastic, let's do that for 10.
太好了 Wonderful.
沿着大街往下走你就会闻到 You can walk down the street and catch the whiff
从酒吧里飘出来的大麻味道 of marijuana smoke coming out of bars --
或者是他们所说的"咖啡厅" "cafes," as they're called,
你可以选择你想要的体验 and you can choose exactly what kind of experience you want.
那个温和些 更梦幻 That's milder, more dreamy.
来点温和的吧 I think just the bud.
谢谢惠顾 Thank you.
再见 Okay, bye.
好好享用 Enjoy.
看着这场景你有点惊讶吧 You look at the scene and you marvel at it.
这和人们围坐在一起 It is no different than people sitting around,
喝酒抽烟没什么不同 enjoying their glass of wine or cigarettes.
阿姆斯特丹甚至有为大麻种植主服务的 Amsterdam even has special garden shops
特别花园商店 for cannabis growers.
将大麻罐子放入更大的罐子里 You repot it into a bigger pot.
把这个罐子直接放到这个罐子里 You put this one straight in the pot.
-不用打破或者… -不用 直接… - You don't have to break it or… - No, just go straight…
商店的主人蒂姆•亚科特 从新西兰来到阿姆斯特丹 Its owner, Tim A'court, came here from New Zealand,
在新西兰他种植大麻的热情 where his passion for growing cannabis
让他触犯了法律 had run him afoul of the law.
大麻种植者需要的东西我店里都有 We sell everything for the home grower here,
从最小的初创企业到真正的大公司 from the smallest set-up to really large set-ups.
其中也包括了很多高科技的东西 And included in that is as much of the high-tech stuff.
这是营养检测仪 This one's a nutrient monitor.
这是两个灯的控制器 These are obviously for two lights,
这是四个灯 六个灯 八个灯的 for four lights, for six lights, eight lights.
如果要求 可以增加到一百盏灯 This goes right up to 100 lights, if you so require.
那是读秒器 That is a second timer.
有时需要精确到秒的计时器 Sometimes we need to have timers right down to the second.
这是相机 This is a camera.
这和监控店卖的监控老婆或别的什么 And it's the same sort of camera you would buy
的相机是一样的 from the spy shop for spying on your wife or whatever.
不过我们监控的是大麻 In this case, we're spying on our crop
确保他人不会进出大麻园 and making sure people aren't coming in and out.
这里还有种子卖 You can also buy seeds.
你想要的任何品种的 You can buy, you know, all female seeds
所有雌性种子都有 of any given strain you want.
一大包里面有六小袋 They're out there in little six-packs,
就像你们园艺中心卖的牵牛花种子一样 just like at your garden center, selling petunias.
我认为除了大麻 I don't think there would be
地球上没有哪种植物 a plant on earth that comes near
拥有如此多的设备和技术 to the amount of equipment and technology
使其发挥潜力 available to grow it to its potential.
这不只是爱好 It's more than just a hobby.
而是一生的工作 It's a whole life's work.
对有些人来说 甚至是一生 Some people, that is their whole life.
他们对这所谓的爱好是如此的狂热 They're so enthusiastic about their so-called hobby.
没法解释 It's unexplainable.
大麻不仅仅和毒品或金钱相关 It's not just something about drugs or money,
人们确实对大麻非常着迷 But there really is a deep fascination with the marijuana plant.
在我看来 大麻和人类一样高级 The way I see plants, they're just as advanced as we are,
从进化的角度来看 from an evolutionary point of view.
但我们研究意识 语言和工具使用时 While we were working on consciousness, language, tool-making,
我们认为美妙和重要的所有东西 all these things we judge to be so wonderful and important,
在研究不同的工具 they were working on different tools.
他们的工具和我们的一样先进 And their tools are just as sophisticated as ours.
例如大麻这种植物 The fact that this plant, cannabis, for example,
真的可以改变意识的结构 can actually change the texture of consciousness.
这太巧妙了 You know, this is ingenious.
没有大麻 人类就不一样了 We would not be the same, if not for cannabis.
当然大麻和别的植物很不一样 And cannabis certainly is very different
因为它和人类的特殊关系 for its relationship with us.
大麻是植物驯化史上最大的赢家之一 It's one of the great winners in this dance of domestication.
翻译
赵小榕 李佳欣 牛冰倩 丫丫 陈昱涛 唐昌俊 陈伟奋 巴音克西格
土豆
控制
曾怡佳 谭晓婷 车国玉 杨聪 王佐 星子炭 李宁远 彭林华
从空中向下看 Looking down at it from the air,
你可能想不到爱达荷州南部是一片沙漠 you might not guess that southern Idaho is a desert.
绿色的大圆圈是庄稼地 The big green circles are crop fields.
农田的水源是一个有着无数地下管道和巨大喷头的 They get their water from a vast irrigation system
大型灌渠系统 of underground pipes and giant sprinklers.
这是美国最高产的耕作区之一 This is one of the most productive farm areas in the United States,
种植养活着美国数百万人口的主要粮食作物-- and one of the principal sources of a food crop that feeds millions of people --
土豆 the potato.
我认为土豆进化来满足的欲望 在很大程度上 The desire, I think, that the potato has evolved to gratify, in large part,
是人类想要控制 控制自己命运的欲望 is our desire for control -- control over our fate.
每亩地能产出大量的土豆 满足人类的需求 It gives us that by providing an immense amount of food per acre.
一个人种半亩地的土豆 An individual with half an acre of potatoes
就够自己和一家人吃一年的 can grow enough food to keep himself alive or his family alive for a year.
太了不起了 It's kind of extraordinary.
翻开泥土 你会看到 When you lift up the soil and you see these
漂亮又有营养的土豆长在地里 beautiful potatoes that are so nutritious growing underneath them,
看到土豆如此高产真是兴奋 it's just, it's really, you know, exciting to see how productive
土豆太了不起了 and how amazing this crop is,
如此小小的植物却成了如此伟大的食物 that it can take this little tiny plant and produce this great food.
到目前为止人类一直在讲的故事是 The story that we've been telling so far
人类和植物共生的故事 is the story of the symbiotic relationship between humans and plants.
有了土豆 这种关系进入了崭新的一章 But with the potato, we enter into a very new chapter in that relationship --
植物的基因改造 the genetic modification of plants.
人类第一次将来自遥远物种的基因 For the first time, we are taking genes from one distant species
引入到其他物种 and introducing it into another.
在人类与植物的关系中 That represents a real quantum change
这是重大的改变 in our relationship to plants.
人类与土豆的关系 Our relationship to the potato
始于南美洲的安第斯山脉 began in the Andes mountains of South America.
在像秘鲁的皮萨克这样的地方 In places like Pisac in Peru,
人们长期依靠土豆生存 people have long depended on the potato for survival.
为了确保种植足够的土豆 To make sure they grow enough potatoes,
那里的农业创新已经发展到了惊人的水平 they've developed an astonishing degree of agricultural creativity.
我们猜测安第斯山地区 We reckon that there are
有5000多种不同的土豆 more than 5,000 different potato varieties in the Andean region.
颜色不同 形状不同 There are tremendous combinations of colors, as well as shapes.
非常细长的土豆块茎 You find very elongated potato tubers
看上去一点也不像土豆 that don't look potatoes at all,
非常非常奇特 to very, very strange,
长着完全不同的结节 with very different protuberances.
你会觉得很奇怪 That look very, very strange to you.
就在安第斯山脉 大概八千年前 It was in the Andes that people
人类首次栽种土豆 first domesticated the potato plant around 8,000 years ago.
要栽种土豆 人们得克服很大的困难 To do that, they had to overcome a big obstacle.
野生土豆有毒 The potato in the wild is poisonous.
你知道 野生土豆会生成土豆素 You know, it's one of those crops that produces solanine,
它是一种有毒的生物碱 which is an alkaloid which is poisonous.
顺带一提 事实上 土豆至今仍会生成土豆素 And, in fact, potatoes still produce it, by the way.
如果让土豆暴露在强光下 If you allow your potato to get exposed to light,
土豆会变绿 生成土豆素 and it turns green, it's producing solanine,
变绿的土豆不能吃 and you shouldn't eat it.
但植物世界总有例外 But in the plant world, there are always exceptions to the rule.
基因不可避免地变异 植物随之改变 Genes inevitably mutate, and plants change.
人们做了很多尝试 也犯了很多错误 People did a lot of trial and error,
试土豆 吐出来 否则要生病的 tasting potatoes and spitting them out, or getting sick.
最后终于找到一种 And then, eventually, you find one,
像"嘿 这种土豆没有那个味道 like, "hey, this one doesn't have that taste.
也许这种就行" Maybe this one's all right."
那就是我们要保存的品种 And those would be the potatoes that we would save.
后来秘鲁人种植土豆非常成功 Over time, the Peruvians achieved great success as potato farmers,
用的不是设法控制自然 not by trying to control nature,
而是适应自然的办法 but by adapting to it.
海拔越高气候变化越剧烈 Whenever you're moving up in altitude, you're having a radical change in climate.
山两边的气候完全不同 And one side of a hill will have a very different climate than another.
早期秘鲁人处理气候问题的办法是 The way the early Peruvians dealt with that
种植许多不同品种的土豆 保留多样性 was to grow many different varieties of potatoes and preserve the diversity,
这样在向阳的地里 so that on a plot of this kind of facing toward the sun
在这样的海拔就种植这样的品种 at this kind of altitude, you plant this one.
在山的另一边 就种另外的品种 And on this plain -- just on the other side of the hill, you plant this potato.
这是掌控他们自己命运的方法 And this was a way of gaining control over their fate.
因为如果那个地方的土豆出了问题 Because if something happened on that one plot at that altitude,
别的地方的土豆还可以收获 they would still have other potatoes.
安第斯地区有很多种植庄稼的地方 The Andean region has many niches for growing crops.
土豆哪里都能种 And the potato was able to adapt to different areas.
所以安第斯山脉生长着 That's why there were so many varieties
很多种类的土豆 用途不同 developed for different uses and different purposes
栽种目的不同 along the Andes.
福斯蒂诺•帕科24岁 Faustino Pacco is 24.
他的家族一直在安第斯山种土豆 有几百年了 His family has been growing potatoes here in the Andes for hundreds of years.
秘鲁有很多种文化
我们的只是众多文化中的一种
我们的是土豆文化
土豆是我们的宝物
是存在我们群体里的财富
兄弟姐妹们
我将把这些叶子吹向众神
作为土豆的供品
带着你们的灵和庇护
我们要收获这些土豆了
土豆收获的仪式
是从祖先那里传下来的
这是我们沿用至今的习俗
干杯 兄弟们 干杯
我们与地球母亲交流
因为我们生活在地球上
依靠她提供食物
这些安第斯农民的祖先建立了 These Andean farmers are the descendants
历史上伟大的文明之一 of one of the great civilizations of history --
印加文明 the Incas.
他们掌管过地球上 They presided over one of the most sophisticated
最先进的农业系统 agricultural systems on earth,
系统很大程度上是为土豆种植服务的 based in large part on the potato.
16世纪西班牙人入侵 But when the Spanish invaded in the 16th century,
摧毁了印加帝国 they destroyed the Inca Empire,
将土豆 以及土豆和人类的关系 and set the potato -- and our relationship with it --
推到了一个新的阶段 on a new phase of its journey.
后来土豆进入欧洲 改变了欧洲历史的进程 When the potato got to Europe, it changed the course of European history.
土豆到来前 欧洲北部地区人口很少 Before the potato, the northern tier of Europe --the population was
人口的增长受制于 relatively small and was held back
因粮食歉收而经常发生的饥荒 by regular famines caused by failures of the grain harvest.
越往北走 小麦就越难种 The further north you go, the dicier it is to grow wheat.
土豆进入欧洲前 欧洲的重心在地中海 And so the center of gravity in Europe before the potato was the Mediterranean,
因为那里可以更可靠地种植谷物 where you could grow grain more reliably.
而在更北的地方 土豆生长得很好 The potato did very well at the more northerly areas.
在更潮湿的地区土豆也长得好 It did very well in wetter areas.
在很贫瘠的土壤里土豆也长得很好 And it did very well in really poor soils.
所以突然地 土豆成了新的巨大的卡路里之源 And so suddenly there was this vast new source of calories
可以保证人口增长的能量之需 that could underwrite the growth of the population.
没有土豆 就不会有那样的人口增长 Such as never would have happened without the potato.
因为一个人就可以种出很多食物 Since one individual can grow so much food,
就不需要很少人种地 you need fewer people in the fields
来给城市人口提供粮食了 to support an urban population.
所以真的很难想象 So it's really hard to imagine
工业革命如何能进行 the industrial revolution proceeding as it would
没有土豆支持的话 without the potato to kind of support it.
这种新的世界食物改变了旧世界 This new world food remade the old world.
土豆在北欧的土壤中蓬勃生长 The potato thrived in the soils of northern Europe,
尤其在爱尔兰 most dramatically in Ireland,
爱尔兰食物极为匮乏 a country sorely in need of a hearty food.
最初对爱尔兰人来说 土豆是天赐之物 For the Irish, the potato initially was a godsend.
爱尔兰贫瘠的土地和恶劣的气候 Ireland's poor farmland and bad weather
使得庄稼难以存活 made it a tough place to grow crops.
但在这种潮湿的环境中 土豆长得很好 But the potato plant actually prospered in this soggy environment,
土豆似乎结束了这个国家与饥饿的长期斗争 and seemed to end the country's long struggle with hunger.
一餐饭有土豆和牛奶 就完整了 If you had potatoes and cow's milk, you had a complete diet.
有热量 很显然 还有全部的维生素 You had calories, obviously, and you had the full complement of vitamins.
所以他们非常依赖土豆 So they became very dependent on the potato.
事实上 人口也增长了 And in fact, the population grew.
但问题是爱尔兰人 The problem was, however, that the Irish
几乎只种一个品种 were planting almost exclusively one kind of potato --
就是他们称之为"装卸工"的土豆 the potato they called "the lumper".
全爱尔兰种的都是"装卸工" And they planted the lumper all over Ireland.
这样一来爱尔兰人真的完全依赖这种土豆了 So the Irish had really made themselves dependent on this one strain of potato.
1845年 来自南美洲的一艘船带来了霉菌 And in 1845, some ship from South America was carrying a fungus,
这种霉菌孢子随风传播 and it was a wind-spread spore,
仅仅几周后 and over the course of a very few weeks,
霉菌孢子扩散到整个爱尔兰 the spores spread across all of Ireland,
感染几天后 田地变黑 and within days of infection, the fields went black,
地里的土豆腐烂了 and the potatoes in the ground turned to mush.
爱尔兰土豆大饥荒持续了三年 The Irish potato famine lasted for three years.
最终一百万人死于这场大饥荒 In the end, the famine killed one million people,
每八个人中就有一人死亡 one out of every eight people in Ireland.
因此在某种程度上 爱尔兰大饥荒 So the Irish famine is, in a way,
警示人们就像不要将所有鸡蛋 the great cautionary tale
放在同一个篮子里一样 of putting all your eggs in one basket,
农作物决不能只有单一品种 and the great cautionary tale about monocultures of all kinds.
爱尔兰大饥荒告诉人们生物多样性是多么重要 It's a parable about the importance of biodiversity
而农作物品种单一化是多么危险 and the dangers of monoculture.
忘记这段历史是危险的 And it's a parable we forget at our peril,
然而 事实上 我们今天正在忘记 But, in fact, we're in the process of forgetting today.
让我们忘记那段惨痛历史的 And what's making us forget
是我们最喜欢的食物之一 炸薯条 is one of our favorite foods.
美国人每年要吃掉大约75亿英镑的炸薯条 Each year, Americans consume about 7.5 billion pounds of French Fries.
薯条是这个国家最受欢迎的快餐 They are the most popular fast food in the country.
美国人爱炸薯条 We love our French Fries.
我们喜欢长长的薯条 We like them really long.
麦当劳首创了这种漂亮的红薯条盒 Mcdonald's kind of pioneered that beautiful red box,
和长薯条 and the long French Fries
薯条得很长才能从盒子里钻出来 that have to be tall enough to kind of sprout out of the box
就像一小束土豆花 like a little bouquet of potato flowers.
为了生产这样的长薯条 And to make those long french Fries,
快餐行业几乎完全依赖一个品种 the fast food industry relies almost exclusively on one variety of potato --
"黄褐色伯班克"土豆 the Russet Burbank.
麦当劳在世界各地只收购这种土豆 And that's what Mcdonald's buys, all over the world.
因为麦当劳想要顾客吃到 Because Mcdonald's wants people to have the same experience --
一样漂亮的 金色的炸薯条 the same beautiful, golden Mcdonald's French Fries,
无论是在布拉格 伦敦 whether you're in Prague or London
北京 纽约还是爱达荷 or Beijing or New York or Idaho.
麦当劳从J.R.辛普劳 Mcdonald's buys its French Fries
这样的土豆加工公司购买薯条 from potato processing companies like the J.R. Simplot company.
这是爱达荷州南帕产的一种土豆 This is one of its plants, in Nampa, Idaho.
我们加工最多是这种黄褐色伯班克土豆 The potato we process the most is the Russet Burbank.
黄褐色伯班克土豆品质理想 The Russet Burbank gives us pretty much the ideal quality attributes,
做成薯条深受顾客欢迎 if we're going to convert them into the product that our customer wants.
因此餐盘里的单一品种需求 So you see how monocultures on the plate,
后果就是土地上的单一作物种植 lead to monocultures on the land,
像追求完美薯条一样的欲望 And that a desire for something like that perfect French Fry
会产生一系列的后果 has a whole, you know, carries a whole chain
最终都归结到农场 of consequences, all the way back to the farm.
这个爱达荷农场绵延将近一百英里 This Idaho farm, whose fields extend for nearly 100 miles,
由瑞恩•克劳利和家人一起经营 is run by Ryan Cranney and his family.
和爱荷华州大多数土豆种植者一样 Like most Idaho potato farmers,
克劳利一家种的土豆大部分卖给 the Cranneys sell most of their crop
加工公司来制作冷冻薯条 to the processing companies that make frozen French Fries.
想要在冰冻前将土豆送到公司去 If you want to get them in before they get frozen,
我们得拼命挖 then we need to keep digging.
为了满足顾客的需要 So, to satisfy their customers,
克劳利一家主要种植黄褐色伯班克土豆 the Cranneys grow mostly Russet Burbanks.
那土豆能做成很好的薯条 That ought to make good French Fries.
我觉得其他品种更容易种 I think there are other varieties that are easier to grow,
但顾客要的黄褐色伯班克土豆 But that's what the consumer demands, is the Russet Burbank,
我有异议就死定了 and I'd be shot for suggesting otherwise.
尽管市场对黄褐色伯班克土豆的需求量大 Despite the demand for Russet Burbanks,
种植这种土豆却不是有把握的事 the business of growing them is far from a sure thing.
每年克劳利一家要花几百万美元 Each year, Cranney and his family have to shell out millions of dollars
支付水 种子 肥料 药品和劳动力的费用 for water, seed, fertilizer, chemicals, and labor.
但他们根本掌控不了土豆的价格 But they have little control over the price.
他们的土豆会在收获季节出售 Their potatoes will sell for at harvest time.
种庄稼风险很大 It's very risky, growing crops.
我们农场遭遇过巨大的经济损失 We had some really huge losses economically here on the farm.
我都不愿意去回忆那些糟糕的情形了 I don't even like to think about it, how bad it was.
好吧 All righty.
周围很多农场主和我一起长大 A lot of the people in the community, farmers that we grew up with,
都在这里生活很多年了 that have been here as long as we have,
却不再种地了 no longer have their operations.
对我们很多人来说唯一的生存办法是 Many of us, the only way we could survive was
反复抵押农场 抵押土地 to re-mortgage our farms and re-mortgage our land,
就这样维持农场运行 and that's how we stayed in business.
我们能做的就是久久地浸在井里 You can only do -- dip into the well
直到井里没水了 for so long until the well goes dry.
我们很多人都到过那样的境地 And many of us have been to that point.
哎 这里情况还不算太糟 Well, it's not too bad here,
因为农场规模还算大 because you're running enough volume.
运行得还不错 但是… They're flowing pretty good, but...
不仅要面对经济风险 In addition to the economic perils he faces,
克劳利还必须抗衡生物天敌-- Cranney must contend with biological adversaries --
那些毁灭他的土豆的虫子 真菌和病毒 the insects, fungi, and viruses that prey on his plants.
黄褐色伯班克土豆特别脆弱 And his Russet Burbanks are especially vulnerable,
因为是单一品种 because they are grown in a monoculture.
就像爱尔兰的"装卸工"一样 Just like the lumper potatoes were, back in Ireland.
如果敌人能够杀死一个克劳利家的黄褐色伯班克土豆 If an enemy can kill one of Cranney's Russet Burbanks,
就可以杀死他家所有土豆 it can kill them all.
作为农民 我的角色是帮助植物 My role as a farmer is to help the plant
打败不同的敌人 out-compete the different pests,
不管是杂草还是虫子 whether that be weeds or whether that be insects
还是某种真菌 or a fungus of some sort.
这是一场持久战 我们必须打退敌人 It's a constant battle that we have to fight those off
保护庄稼 and to protect against those.
这是一场到终点才能定胜负的比赛 It's a race to the finish line, whether the pests win
可能害虫赢 可能土豆赢 or whether the potato plant wins.
为了帮土豆赢 To help his potatoes win that race,
和绝大多数 Cranney, like the great majority
美国大规模土豆种植主一样 of large-scale potato growers in the United States,
克劳利使用化学杀虫剂 uses chemical pesticides.
克劳利一家使用的化学杀虫剂可能有毒 The chemicals the Cranneys use can be toxic,
但他们遵守环境保护署的指导方针 but they follow EPA guidelines
这个指导方针确定了化学杀虫剂的 that establish levels that are considered
安全使用标准 safe to use.
我并不喜欢用 I don't necessarily like to apply
杀虫剂 或任何种类的化学药品 the insecticides -- or any chemical of any sort,
但为了使土豆不染病 必须得用 but it's something that needs to be done in order to keep the plants healthy.
迫不得已时我们才用化学药剂 We don't use a chemical unless we need to,
还得按处方来 根据土地情况来 and it's kind of by prescription, by field.
不是跑到地里大量喷洒 So you just don't go in and just blanket
化学药品和杀真菌剂 excessive amounts of chemicals and fungicides on.
如果土豆不需要 我们不会用 If that potato doesn't need any, we won't apply it.
需要才用 If it does, we do.
你知道 我们也爱孩子 You know, we love our children, too.
我们不想再在我们吃的食物里加任何东西 And we don't want to put anything on the food that we eat any more,
我们面对同样的污染 to taint it for us, any more than you.
你知道 控制自然的代价是昂贵的 You know, the control of nature is expensive.
喷杀虫剂, 一个季度 To spray all those pesticides, to have 10 sprayings
施10次肥 of fertilizer over a course of the season,
浇水 买水 抽水 to water, to buy all that water and pump all that water,
都要花很多钱 it's enormously expensive.
农民靠微薄的利润生活 These farmers are really living on, on very thin margins
可不能出一点点差错 and very little room for error.
坐着指责农民在我们的食品里 And, you know, it's easy for us
加了化学药剂太容易了 to sit here and criticize them for spraying
但实际上 these chemicals on our food, but the fact is,
如果农民不用化学药剂 if they were to give up on a single spraying,
他们就活不下去了 they risk their livelihood.
1995年瑞恩•克劳利和其他农民一起 In 1995, Ryan Cranney and farmers like him
迎来了农业方面的突破 welcomed the news of an agricultural breakthrough
这种突破可以减少农药的使用量 that promised to cut down their use of sprays.
世界上最大的生物技术公司孟山都 Monsanto, the world's biggest biotechnology company,
研究出了一种方法 毒性很小 came up with a much less toxic method
可以杀死土豆的死敌之一 for killing one of the potato's most deadly enemies --
科罗拉多土豆甲虫 the Colorado potato beetle,
这种虫子可以在一夜之间吃光土豆的叶子 which can pick the leaves off a plant virtually overnight.
科罗拉多土豆甲虫 Colorado potato beetle,
在全世界都是对土豆危害最大的虫子 worldwide, is probably the most serious insect pest in potatoes.
你知道 我们估计在美国西部 We still estimate that, you know, out in the Western U.S.
可能在全美范围内 and probably across the U.S. as a whole,
我们使用的大约40%的除虫剂 about 40% of the insecticides that were applied
是用来控制科罗拉多土豆甲虫的 were applied for Colorado Potato beetle control.
孟山都创造了 Monsanto's innovation was to create
一个土豆新品种 名为"新叶土豆" a new kind of potato, called the Newleaf Potato.
这是第一个用转基因工程培育出来的土豆品种 It was the first potato to be genetically engineered
这个品种有着不同的生物物种的基因 to contain genes from a different biological species.
基因工程是全新的技术 Genetic engineering is a radically new technology,
完全不同于传统的育种方式 compared to traditional breeding.
这种技术允许我们移动基因 It allows us to move genes
无须担心物种障碍 without regard to species barriers.
我们还可以将蝴蝶的基因移到玉米中 It allows us to move a gene from a butterfly, you know, into a corn plant,
将海星的基因移到小麦里 from a starfish into a wheat plant.
孟山都的新叶土豆用了来自普通土壤细菌的基因 Monsanto's Newleaf potato used a gene from a common soil bacterium,
这种基因能产生杀死土豆甲虫的蛋白质 one that makes a protein that kills potato beetles
但对人无害 without causing harm to humans.
细菌名为苏云金芽孢杆菌 The bacterium is called Bacillus Thuringiensis,
简称BT or BT for short.
为了推销BT土豆 To help market its BT potato,
孟山都聘植物生物学家迈克尔•桑顿 Monsanto hired plant physiologist Michael Thornton
做公司与爱达荷州农民的联络人 to be one of its liaisons to farmers in Idaho.
孟山都能够找出 Monsanto was able to identify
那种细菌里的基因 BT基因 the gene in that bacterium, the BT gene
BT基因能生产蛋白质 that was responsible for production of that protein.
研究人员可以使用程序将那种基因插入某种土豆 And they could use a process to insert that gene into a potato variety,
这种土豆是种植者很熟悉的 one that growers were already familiar with.
甲虫吃了叶子 也吃进了叶子里面的BT蛋白质 The beetle eats that leaf and gets that BT protein inside it,
然后BT蛋白质破坏甲虫的消化系统 and it disrupts its digestive system,
最终杀死科罗拉多土豆甲虫 and that eventually kills the Colorado potato beetle.
我的观点是科技进步 I came from the standpoint that technology and new improvements
对土豆产业来说是件好事 were a good thing for the potato industry,
因此我很高兴看到 so I was very excited to see something that was
土豆行业有了巨大的技术进步 kind of a quantum leap in technology for the industry be introduced.
农业技术进步意味着庄稼可以少用农药 The promise here was that you could diminish spraying.
农民种土豆的成本可以低一点 You might pay a little bit more for these potatoes,
因为土豆自己产生杀虫剂 but since they generated their own pesticide,
农民可以少用农药 you could give up some of your sprayings.
这点吸引了很多土豆种植者 And this was very attractive to a lot of potato farmers.
我们很激动 认为新产品要腾飞了 We were really excited about it and thought that it was really going to take off.
1996年新叶土豆开始 In 1996, the Newleaf potato began making its way
进入快餐连锁店和超市 into fast food chains and supermarkets.
随着时间的推移 数百万人 As time went by, millions of people
吃着转基因的土豆 were eating the genetically modified potatoes,
但几乎没人意识到这一点 but hardly any of them realized it,
因为政府规定转基因土豆不需要贴标签 because the government had ruled the potatoes didn't need to be labeled.
我做报告时才意识到这一点 I realized as I did my reporting,
我已经吃过转基因土豆了 I'd eaten them already.
我去过麦当劳 买过乐事薯条 I'd been in a Mcdonald's. I'd bought Frito-lay chips.
我一点也没意识到存在那样的问题 and the thing I learned that iadn'bere of,
因为没人告诉我们 because we hadn't been told,
美国人已经吃了 is that we Americans had been eating these potatoes
好几年转基因土豆了 already for a couple of years.
转基因土豆和普通土豆营养是一样的 The potato was the same, nutritionally,
维生素等含量也一样 had the same level of vitamins, things like that.
转基因土豆只是多了个编码蛋白质的基因 It just had this one additional gene that codes
该蛋白质占植物里蛋白质总量的 for a protein that makes up less than a tenth of one-percent
十分之一不到 of the total protein in the plant.
美国食品药品监督局做出的决定是 And the decision by the Food and Drug Administration was that,
除非完全不同 或有了新的毒素 unless it's substantially different, unless there's a new toxin,
或改变了营养状况 unless you've changed the nutrient profile,
转基因食品不需要注明 it does not need to be labeled.
在我看来 以前土豆 Now, it seems to me that the potato
自身从未能产生过这种杀虫剂 never before produced this pesticide.
也就是说产生杀虫剂的土豆 So to say that potatoes producing pesticide
和不产生杀虫剂的土豆是一样的 are substantially equivalent to potatoes that don't.
这似乎有点令人难以置信 seems to involve a certain suspension of disbelief.
嘿嘿 嚯嚯 Hey, hey! Ho, ho!
我们不要转基因 嘿嘿 We don't want no GMOS! Hey, hey!
20世纪90年代后期新叶土豆 In the late 1990s, as the Newleaf
开始占据市场 was making inroads into the market,
转基因作物 the issue of genetically modified organisms, or GMOS,
引发了全世界的强烈反对 was arousing intense opposition all over the world.
我们不要转基因 We don't want no GMO!
嘿嘿 嚯嚯 Hey, hey! Ho, ho!
我想知道什么东西 I want to know what's going on
食药监局想要 让我们吃什么
进入了我和我女儿的身体 in my body and my daughter's body
当我们吃转基因玉米时 When they feed corn to, to us that's been genetically altered.
他们不知道 他们不能告诉你 They don't know. They can't tell you.
-我们想要什么 -安全的食物 - What do we want? - Safe food!
-什么时候要 -现在 - When do we want it? - Now!
转基因土豆降低了农民的生产成本 The BP potato offers farmers reduced cost.
但没给消费者带来任何好处 It doesn't offer consumers anything.
可以选择的话 大部分消费者 And so a lot of consumers, if they were given a choice,
会说 "转基因产品于我无益" might say, "well, it doesn't provide an advantage for me.
"因此我不了解转基因产品" and therefore, not knowing a whole lot about it,
我会 我会直接说"不" I might, I might simply say "no".
我确实知道麦当劳 I do know Mcdonald's was getting
接到了不少电话和信件 a certain number of calls and letters asking them,
问"你们的薯条真的是转基因土豆做的吗" "is it true that you are serving genetically modified potatoes?"
和很多食品公司一样 麦当劳 This is a company, like many food companies,
对公众舆论非常敏感 exquisitely sensitive to public opinion.
他们可能看到了一场潜在的公关危机 And they probably saw a potential public relations disaster.
你知道 麦当劳并不想坏孟山都的生意 They didn't want to, you know, ruin Monsanto's business,
但私下里表示在接下来的一年里 but they very quietly said that after the following year,
麦当劳将不再与其合作了 they would no longer be taking them.
随之 新叶土豆时代结束了 And with that, the newleaf potato was over.
就是这样 That was it.
2001年 孟山都停止出售新叶土豆 In 2001, Monsanto stopped selling the Newleaf potato.
如今新叶土豆仅有5%的市场份额 It had captured only about 5% of the market.
麦当劳和孟山都 Both Mcdonald's and Monsanto
都拒绝接受本节目的采访 declined to be interviewed for this program.
我很失望 看到整个梦想就这样被扼杀了 I was very disappointed, to see this whole dream just kind of being shut down
在如此短的时间里 over relatively a short period of time.
我觉得这是个悲剧 Seemed to me to be a tragedy.
我不认为这是悲剧 I don't think it was a tragedy.
我认为这是一场大辩论的一部分 I think it was part of a very large debate
关于我们的社会应该怎样回应 about how our society ought to respond to the use
像基因工程这样的全新技术 of a radically new technology like genetic engineering
在农业中的应用的大辩论 in agriculture.
不再销售转基因土豆后 But since the demise of the BT potato,
孟山都在其他转基因 Monsanto has been very successful
农产品的销售上非常成功 selling other genetically engineered crops,
比如玉米 大豆和棉花 like corn, soybeans, and cotton.
昆虫学家布鲁斯•塔巴什尼克一直在研究 Entomologist Bruce Tabashnik has been studying
亚利桑那州的转基因棉花 the BT cotton crop in Arizona.
目前亚利桑那州的情况很特殊 We're in a special situation in Arizona right now
那里98%的棉花都是转基因的 where about 98% of the cotton grown is BT cotton.
转基因棉花是消灭 It's being used as part of a program to eradicate,
或至少极大地抑制粉红棉铃虫项目的一部分 or at least greatly suppress, pink bollworm.
棉铃虫对棉花的危害 The bollworm is as dangerous
和科罗拉多甲虫对土豆的危害一样大 to the cotton crop as the Colorado beetle is to potatoes.
棉铃虫给我们的经济造成了很大的损失 We have lots of damage inside the boll here.
一只或多只毛毛虫躲在棉铃里吃种子 One or more caterpillars has been feeding on the seeds inside the boll,
棉铃对棉铃虫来说好极了 which is great for the insects,
但对棉花和棉农来说却是灾难 but not good for the plant or for the farmer.
塔巴什尼克先生一直在研究 Tabashnik has been investigating
人们对转基因作物主要的担忧之一 one of the major concerns about BT crops --
虫子进化而来的抵抗杀虫蛋白质的能力 究竟有多大 the degree to which insects evolve resistance to the bug-killing protein.
孟山都为他的一些研究提供了部分的经费 Some of his work is partly funded by Monsanto,
为了监控转基因作物的抵抗力 那些研究工作是合法的 which is legally required to monitor BT resistance.
多年来 有机农场主用转基因喷雾消灭害虫 For years, organic farmers have controlled pestswith a spray form of BT.
但是现在转基因已被植入庄稼里 But now that BT has been engineered into crops,
日复一日地暴露昆虫 exposing insects day in and day out.
塔巴什尼克先生发现 Tabashnik has found
臭虫更有可能产生抗药性 that the bugs are more likely to develop resistance.
在使用转基因喷雾剂的几十年里 In the decades of use of BT sprays,
只有一种昆虫进化出了抗药性 there's only one insect that evolved resistance.
而在转基因作物种植大约十二年后 On the other hand, after about a dozen years of BT crops,
我们已经发现了三种昆虫进化出了抗药性 we already have three examples of insects that have evolved resistance.
但塔巴什尼克先生仍然认为 But Tabashnik still thinks
对环境而言 转基因作物利大于弊 genetically engineered crops do more to help the environment than to harm it.
我认为最终 你无法完全确定不会有危害发生 I think that ultimately you can't be absolutely sure that no harm will come,
但种植转基因作物时 可以少用杀虫剂 But when you're using BT crops, the benefits are reduced insecticide use.
风险更难量化 更不确定 The risks are much more difficult to quantify and much more uncertain.
我觉得种植 In my own mind, it seems like it makes sense
更多种类的转基因作物 that we could go to more genetically modified
是有意义的 type plants.
我们就不用在植物上喷洒这些化学药剂了 That would allow us not to apply these chemicals on the plants,
转基因作物对害虫有天然的抵抗力 and they would have a natural resistance to these insects.
我觉得这种做法是合理的 It seems like a logical way to go for me,
我想总有一天这种想法会实现 And I assume someday it will go there.
对于像土豆这样的粮食作物来说 But for food crops like the potato,
基因工程和化学杀虫剂 genetic engineering and chemical pesticides
并不是唯一的选择 are not the only choices.
只要你种植的是单一作物 You know, as long as you’re growing monocultures,
为保证作物的生长 你就不得不在 you sort of have to choose between
大量使用杀虫剂 lots of pesticides to keep them going,
和应用转基因之间做出选择 or genetically modified crops to keep them going.
但如果你愿意放弃单一作物 But if you’re willing to abandon monoculture,
就会有其他方法 there are other ways to do it.
麦克•西斯是位有机农场主 Mike Heath, who grows potatoes in Idaho
在爱达荷州种土豆 just 60 miles from the Cranneys,
离克雷利家仅60英里 is an organic farmer.
在传统的系统中 In a conventional system,
人们努力控制 you’re trying to control.
努力控制大自然 You’re trying to control nature.
而我们尽力和大自然合作 We are trying to work with it as best we can.
邻居将大部分土地用来种植 While his neighbors devote most of their acreage
黄褐色伯班克土豆 to the Russet Burbank,
而西斯更在意机会均等 Heath is more of an equal-opportunity grower.
我们今年共种了16个品种的土豆 We have 16 varieties altogether this year.
相当多样化 So we are pretty diversified.
据我所知 As far as I’m concerned,
多样化是我们的主要优势 that is our main strength, is our diversification.
西斯种了诺科达 Heath grows Norkotahs,
红诺兰兹 全蓝和艾尔巴 Red Norlands, All Blues, and Elbas.
种很多不同的品种 By planting lots of different varieties
用瓢虫这样的天敌来消灭害虫 and controlling pests with natural enemies like ladybugs,
西斯的农场不需要用有害的化学物质了 he farms without using toxic chemicals.
传统的农民当然 The conventional farmers certainly
知道在种植时怎样使用化学药品 know how to farm with chemicals.
我 我自己 如果还得用化学药品 I, I myself, if I had to go back to that,
就干脆不种地了 I'd, I would quit.
西斯农场的劳动力成本很高 Heath's labor costs are high.
他农场的面积 He doesn't cultivate as many acres
和农作物的量都比克雷利家的少 or grow as much food as the Cranneys.
但因为他不用花钱买杀虫剂 But since he spends next to nothing on pesticides
他有机土豆在专门的市场中价格也更高 and gets good prices for his organic potatoes in specialty markets,
所以通常他每亩地的收益更高些 He usually earns more money per acre.
我曾经很傻 真的很傻 I used to be really, pretty stupid,
你知道 我邻居曾经认为我很傻 you know, as far as my neighbors were concerned, pretty silly.
比起10年15年前 我现在受人尊敬多了 But I have a lot more respect now than I did 10, 15 years ago.
他们可以看到我仍在种植有机土豆 They can see that I'm still in business,
产品市场也很好 and we've got good markets,
我们的土豆品质好 and we grow a good product,
做为一名有机农场主 我很自豪 and I'm proud to be an organic farmer.
当然 达到目的的方法不止一种 You know, there are other ways to skin a cat.
农场主在想办法 And farmers are figuring it out.
他们在思考不使用杀虫剂种地的办法 And they're figuring out how to grow food without pesticides,
你会发现所有解决了问题的 and the key, the key insight that you find
有创造力的农场主 in all the creative farmers who have solved this problem
的关键认识是 绝不搞单一种植 is getting away from monoculture.
解决单一种植问题的办法 The answer to the problems of monoculture
不是新技术 不是权宜之计 is not new technologies, it's not band-aids.
而是压根不搞单一种植 It's getting away from monoculture.
我觉得如果我们能学习秘鲁人 I think if we could learn from the Peruvians,
能重新重视先人们 if we could step back and appreciate
在土豆中给予我们的多样性 the diversity that they've given us in the potato,
在农业中利用多样性 and take advantage of it in our agriculture,
我们就找到了前进的方向 that is the way forward.
我认为秘鲁先人 I think some of the methods
利用基因多样性 they've developed in Peru to use genetic diversity
在一块地里种植多个品种 by planting a whole range of varieties within one field
的做法很好 is a very good strategy,
但我认为很难轻易地将其应用于 but I just don't see how we readily adapt that
我们目前的生产体系 to a production system that
这系统不仅要养活美国人 not only has to feed people in the U.S.,
还要用一种具有一定质量的产品 but feed a worldwide population
来养活全世界的人口 with a product that's a certain quality.
我们对大自然施加的秩序 The order we impose on nature
不过是暂时的 虚幻的 is never more than temporary or illusory.
最终大自然的逻辑将战胜 In the end, the logic of nature will win out
资本主义的逻辑 工厂的逻辑 over the logic of capitalism, the logic of the factory,
效率的逻辑 the logic of efficiency.
一直如此 永远如此 It's always been so and it always will be so.
大自然比我们的任何设计都要强大 Nature is stronger than any of our designs.
大自然抗拒我们的控制 And nature resists our control.
我从这些故事中得到的最大的感悟是 For me, the most important lessons to take away from these tales,
人类不是置身于生命之网之外 is that we are not simply standing outside the web of life,
而是生命之网的一部分 but that we are part of that web of life
我们所做的任何事 and that everything we do,
选择吃的任何食品 what we choose to eat,
选择摆在桌子上的任何花 what flowers we choose to put on our tables,
选择吃的任何药 what drugs we choose to take,
都是我们每天以很多很多 these are evolutionary votes
不同的方式投出的进化票 we are casting every day in many, many different ways.
当我们用这些比喻 When we use these metaphors and we talk
说植物有做这事的办法 about plants having a strategy to do this
想要这样 想要那个时 or wanting this or desiring this,
我们显然是在打比方 we're being metaphorical, obviously.
我的意思是 植物没有意识 I mean, plants do not have consciousness.
但这是我们自己的词汇有问题 But this is a fault of our own vocabulary.
我们没有恰当的词 We don't have a very good vocabulary
来描述其他物种为我们做的事 to describe what other species do to us,
因为我们认为自己是 because we think we're
唯一真正做事的物种 the only species that really does anything.
但在某种程度上 你可以将自己放在 But to the extent that you can put yourself
其他物种的位置上 in the place of these other species,
并从他们的角度看世界 and look at the world from their point of view,
这样人类和大自然之间的疏远感得以消除 I think it frees us from our sense of alienation from nature,
人类成为生物群中的成员 and we become members of the biotic community,
众多物种中的一个 所有物种一起 one among many species, all of them together
创造这个我们称之为"生命"的奇妙网络 creating this wondrous web that we call life.